MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

first, i removed two screws at the bottom of front panel. then lifted from the bottom removing it. next, removed drum surround and drum. next , removed right roller and roller shaft. then installed new shaft, slide roller back on shaft. next reinstalled drum, drum surround and front panel. Now so quiet you can hardly hear it run, also my sister says it drys much faster.

First I removed the two screws on the front panel that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3" and disconnected the two wires. Find out the roller broken. Place an order with Partselect from friend recommendation. Fast delivery, replace the broken roller, reverse the process and test the sound of the dryer. Very satisfied with the parts. Thanks!

I ordered two parts for my Maytag model MDE7400ATW, and studied the videos on your website. Both showed front panel access by removing screws on the bottom of the panel. My front was completely different. It seems both configurations bear the same model number.
I thought I had the wrong parts, then I looked for other videos on the website related to other parts replacement and found that some did have the same cabinet as mine, such as the idler wheel, Part Number WP6-3700340
They should make it clear on the website that there are two cabinet configurations and customers may have to look at the videos for other repairs to learn the correct way to take off the front panel. It may save returns from customers who simply can’t open the front.
After all, the repair went well, but the screw holding the heater assembly in the rear is a long reach and I needed a flashlight to see wher the screw needed to go.

Removed the door then removed front panel then removed 8 screws that held the drum in. At this point reached in and removed the snap ring on the wheels and replaced the washers and wheels. Then reassembled it.

My son did the repair work. He took off the door and then carefully unhooked the belt and removed the drum. Replacement on the drum roller kit went smooth, and he then oiled the idler pulley while he was in there. I now have a "quiet dryer" once again!!! Had orderd the wrong part to begin with, but was very easy to return, receive my credit and get the "right" replacement part.
Great Service!!!!

Just took it apart and put new one in.

placed it on post with a little glue. It is for decorative use but could not just leave it with no baffle.

I simply removed the retaining clip and old bearing and re-installed the new drum roller, washers and retaining clip. Fairly simple really.

First, suggest that, if you're mechanically challenged, take pictures or write down the disassembly sequence you use.
Took off the door, removed the front sub panel, then the shroud. When I noticed the wires to the moisture sensors, etc., I remembered to unplug the unit. Once all the screws and clips are removed, used a pry bar to prop up the top of the unit. This makes it much easier to get to the baffle screws from the outside of the drum. Removed old baffles and replaced with the new ones, vacuumed out the inside of the unit, and put it back together in about an hour. It took the parts about three business days to arrive, so it was time to do laundry by then!

First, unplug the dryer.

Second, remove the front of the dryer by removing the two screws at near bottom on both the left and right. These look like security Torx with the post in the center but you can remove them with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Third, remove the wires from heating element on the right. There are the two power connections (one each at about 2 and 7 oclock) and two for the sensor at 11 oclock. You probably want to user pliers to remove these just in case...

Fourth, remove the two 1/4" screws holding the heater element in place. One is in the front center, the other is at about 1 oclock at the rear.
Pull straight out and the element comes free.

Fifth, remove the circuit interrupter from the old unit and install it on the new unit. Be sure to move the jumper from the heating element power (about 5 oclock) and the interrupter.

Sixth, install the heating element. The element is a cylinder of metal. I found that I needed to bend in the seam at the back very slightly to get it to fix back in.

Seventh, alight the screw holes and replace the 1/4" screws.

Eighth, reattach the wires, being careful to replace each where it came from.

Ninth, replace the dryer front...and your done.

Follow instructions on this website and be sure to pull the felt seal fairly tight as you work your way around or you'll be a little short at the end...

The easiest repair I've ever had to do. I checked U-tube and watched a video on how to take off the dryer door and top to get to the baffle, then switched out the old for the new. Put everything back together and it is working great! So easy my 12 year old can do this fix.

removed the front panel and lifted the top up. turned the tumbler and screwed down the new baffles from the outside. Used washers because the screw holes were bent from the old baffles.

I had to remove the door, raise top and remove the front panel. After removing the drum and belt it was easy to replace the tension idler and put it all back together.

Replaced tensioner pulley along with felts, rollers, shafts, belt, and bearing pads. This dryer is 21 years old and has been serviced by myself at 15 years old. I replaced everything mentioned above except the tensioner pulley. This is a great running dryer but always remember to change the tensioner pulley when the unit is apart. Also have a third hand when mounting the belt and drum. Very easy other wise.