GMMP280ED4WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks!
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

removed remaining handle pieces and simply snapped the new part in place. very simple,very easy.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.

Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door

Snap off and then snap New one on.

Inspected door switch operation and was working properly and simply looked for bulb in the dryer drum housing and located it immediately above the door opening,unscrewed it and noticed the broken elements inside. The bulb is a 10w/120V. Installed bulb problem solved.

After removing pieces that were stuck in the door, I simply popped the new handle in place. It took less than a minute. What was the easiest was ordering and receiving the new parts- I ordered and 2 days later I received the new parts. I didn't expect to get the new parts for at least a week.

inserted on an angle and snapped in place.
The best part of this story was I ordered the part on a Saturday and got it on Monday evening.
The repair took less than 20 seconds. I am extremely impressed with the fast fast fast shipping time.

Screwed the light bulb into the socket (duh)

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.