GMMP280ED4WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I thought the dryer timer had gone bad, but was probably just the knob. Exact parts on this site. Pulled dryer out at angle to access back. Removed the three top screws and the front panel easily pulled off. Removed knob to release the part and realized that the knob was probably the problem! Broken plastic.... I still replaced the dryer timer since the dryer is 2014. Took photo to ensure all wires replaced in same spots. Both parts had a letter with the wire color as well. I watched a youtube video and knew I had to rotate the timer counterclockwise to remove it from the panel - two slots hold it onto the panel. I pulled the wires one at a time, some needed pliers to remove. Installed wires on new part, installed timer on panel clockwise, re-attached front panel. When I re-installed the knob, it failed. I ordered the knob from here and used the signal knob temporarily until it arrived. Works great with new knob.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.

The repair made it necessary to remove the door of the dishwasher. Removing the door seemed to be a daunting task, but after watching a YouTube video I made myself aware of the necessary steps to complete the task.

- After turning off the power to the dishwasher, I removed the kickplate panel, this gave access the wiring going to the defective board, which I unplugged.
- Removed the screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, these are located at the top of the machine and are accessible by opening the dishwasher door.
- Pull the dishwasher forward a few inches.
- On each side of the door is a spring loaded device that holds the door from falling open when not latched. They can be identified as white plastic items with a cable connected to them. Once removed take care to not allow the door to fall open, instead, when opened slightly raise the door off the unit.
- Lay the door on the floor.
- There are three sheetmetal screws on each side of the door, using your nut driver remove these screws. They secure outside of the door to the inner door.
- Stand the door up on the floor and raise the outer door panel, there are several plastic clips on each side the slide into slots on the inner door panel. I found it a little difficult to separate the panels, but with gentle persuasion they came apart.
- Lay the inner panel on the floor with the exposed electrical components facing up.
- At the top of the inner panel is a black plastic cover protecting the electronic components, this where the control panel lives.
- Remove the sheetmetal screws that secures this plastic cover.
- There are two wiring harnesses, remove them.
- The defective component can be lifted out.
- Install the new control panel.
- Reassemble.

Watched the video on a different style of dryer so taking apart a bit of a challenge. The old Front Drum Bearing was completely gone on left side and a challenge to pry it off the front dryer panel. replaced felt seal and front drum bearing. noticed that there was 4 places for new bearing slides. the ones i ordered were white and green but did not know why or which one went where as no explanation with packaging. also only ordered one of each and so now had to stop and try and find two more. ! hour later i had brought back a tupperware lid that was thick enough and stated could go to 194 degrees F. i cut out one replacement for green bearing and reused the old white one since it was in good shape from right side of drum bearing. i went back to this website and noticed in the comments section for drum bearing that someone stated the green bearing slides go in at positions 11 and 1 and the white at 10 and 2. they are different materials and having more weight of drum on green now made sense. put machine back together and told neice to keep eyes and ears on dryer thru cycle. she did not even know it was running just in next room.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

Once I figured out how to remove the control panel. The rest was very easy. Upon pulling off the knob in the center of the control panel, there was a screw behind it. Once removed I used the palm of my hand and gave it a couple of upward hits in the center while the door was open. It slid up and I removed the electrical connections. Then carefully removed the top by pushing from the rear of the machine slightly and lifted off. Then removing the screws that hold the front on . After that it went pretty easily, reassembly went in reverse and. That was that!