6651597399 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the plugs in the slides, removed the rack, slid the new rack in and replaced the plugs.

There was no tools involved the part popped right into place. I received the part within two days from the date placed. It was great.

I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed.
I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.

Remove bottom valence to get access to 2 screws on the bottom flange of front cover. With those 2 screws removed the front panel comes off revealing the rear side of the dispenser and 6 screws that hold dispenser tightly to the inside panel. Remove 2 wires that are push connectors to solenoid. The unit simply drops out. Installation is just the reversal of removal. Very easy.

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

replaced those parts... but lingering doubts about adequacy of water supply due to sediment primarily from old iron pipes, evidenced in faucet aerator. So I added a Rusco hot water sediment trap filter to the supply line leading to the dishwasher and faucet, along with a new flex supply line to the dishwasher. Water supply seems improved, and any potential sediment will be caught by the trap.The time, tools, and complexity of adding the hot water sediment filter are not covered in the above.

I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.
In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.
Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.

Following instructions I found on the web, I removed the bottom plates of the dishwasher and could see the broken spring hanging from its attachment point. After shutting the power off, I reached in, removed the broken spring and with a bit of muscle, attached the new spring and stretched it to a bracket that gave the door stability when openeed. Took about 20 minutes to finish up and the door works nicely. Saved a ton of money versus calling in a repair man at $90 for arriving and $30 each 15 minutes

Took the old one off put the new one on

Once I figured it out it was not bad at all and most of all it worked, no leaks. I just cleaned some old glue off the stainless steel, dried it well, ran a bead of glue like directions showed, squeezed in the new gasket, closed the door for 24 hours then ran the dishwasher. No Problems.

This spinner is attached to a plastic module PN WP3379369 which is held in place by two screws to the top of the dishwasher. I was able to temporarily reattach the spinner by using a hot soldering iron to melt the nylon axle that goes through the spinner. By using a very small metal washer placed on top of the spinner I was able to melt enough off the end of the nylon axle so as to keep the spinner in place and still be able to rotate. By far the most difficult part of this repair is removing the two stops that prevent the upper washer rack being removed from the machine. Doing so requires using a pair of long nosed pliers and taking note of what needs to be squeezed. Even if installing a new part the upper rack needs to be removed in order to get access to this central part.

The nut had broken off even with the top of the threaded area, so we had to remove that broken part. We did so by using small pliers and inserting them in the opening and held them in a spreaded position while turning the broken piece out. We replaced the three new parts and put it back together and it works fine. So easy and much cheaper that having a repairman come in. Took us less than 15 minutes.

Removed broker washer arm mount with screwdriver and replaced. New parts clipped right on to upper rack, no tools needed. Didn't really need to replace the tube holder but it was brittle so I put it in the order.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

required NO tools,

just unscrew the large thumb screw, and replace the washer arm bearing!

problem solved like that!

maybe a 5 min job. part was a perfect match.