6651597399 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced dispenser. Leaked around dispenser the first time i installed. Re-tightened mounting screws and everything worked OK.

Remove bottom valence to get access to 2 screws on the bottom flange of front cover. With those 2 screws removed the front panel comes off revealing the rear side of the dispenser and 6 screws that hold dispenser tightly to the inside panel. Remove 2 wires that are push connectors to solenoid. The unit simply drops out. Installation is just the reversal of removal. Very easy.

Removed the plugs in the slides, removed the rack, slid the new rack in and replaced the plugs.

There was no tools involved the part popped right into place. I received the part within two days from the date placed. It was great.

I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed.
I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

Removed broker washer arm mount with screwdriver and replaced. New parts clipped right on to upper rack, no tools needed. Didn't really need to replace the tube holder but it was brittle so I put it in the order.

Removed existing gasket by pulling up from the bottom edge. Clean groove where gasket came out of with a tooth brush and then replace gasket starting in the middle near the door latch. Make sure gasket is evenly distributed on both sides.

I just had to unscrew the old nut and screw the new one and install the new wash arm bearing ring.

The new part was one piece and merely took unscrewing the holder and replace the part. Except for the screw being tough to remove, putting it back on was a snap!

Screwed on a new one. The real story is getting the part. I called about noon one day and the part was dropped off at my house by FedEx the next day. Unbelievable. And the lady I talked to found the part number etc that I needed in a few minutes. Great service at a fair price.

required NO tools,

just unscrew the large thumb screw, and replace the washer arm bearing!

problem solved like that!

maybe a 5 min job. part was a perfect match.

I needed a #3 screwdriver. Cut the top of the ring of the tube holder, one snip from a pair of side cutters. Unscrew the old tube, screw in the new one, the old tube holder works fine with the cut in it . I didn't need to remove the top rack. Done.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.