6651597399 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First I read the other repair stories and knew it was a relatively easy repair. I removed the end caps on the front of the top dish rack and removed it for ease of access to the part. I then removed the two screws holding in the old part observing how it was positioned to make sure the new part was replaced in the same manner. I put the new part in place and screwed in place and replaced the dish rack. Everything is working just fine.

Unscrew the top bracket on basket of upper spray arm assembly. Remove entire upper spray arm assembly. Remove old spray arm. Install new spray arm and new supply tube being careful to align the upper bracket with slot on new spray arm and supply tube.

Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure.
No leaks.

I removed the old wheel assemblies
(4 total holding 2 wheels each) with a slight prying with a screwdriver to
ease it off the rack. After the first one, the rest were a little easier.
The new ones had to "mate" a certain way and then just needed a push of the hand.

removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.

I ordered the upper and lower rack replacements PLUS additional wheels and other attachments because I could not tell from the schematic on the website whether or not the smaller pieces came with the rack.

As it turned out, the racks came ready to install and all it took was a limber nephew to take out the old ones and put in the new. Now I have plenty of spare parts in my own inventory in case the wheels, etc. need replacing.

I feel guilty sending you this repair story because all I did was order the parts on your website and then conned my nephew into making the exchange.

The parts arrived very quickly and in good condition. In fact, the new racks are an improvement over the ones that came with the dishwasher originally. Ms. Susan McNutt was quite helpful in keeping me informed of the status of the part that was back-ordered. It was a pleasure dealing with PartSelect.com.

My husband replaced the entire soap dispenser until in under 30 minutes. I stayed out of the room. :) I didn't hear any swearing, so I assume it went fairly well. Sorry that I can't give you detailed instructions. He didn't need a manual or any type of directions. I guess it was kind of obvious how to do it. Just be sure you turn off the power first.

replaced door seal,lower door seal and wash arm bearing ring-now it leaked when it was running.put old door seal back in and no leaks. all it needed was the wash arm bearing, also I cleaned out the inside of the water level float,which lowered the water level in the bottom of the dishwasher.

Replaced dispenser. Leaked around dispenser the first time i installed. Re-tightened mounting screws and everything worked OK.

We unscrewed the old mount, and installed new mount, inserted screw and tightened. Waa-lah, that was all that needed to be done.

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

Bent back metal ears over door hinge pins, released door springs from door hinges. Lifted door off of hinges and replaced corner drain back seals and lower door seal.Still leaks so obviously I have another issue or the door seal is lousy quality. I've completed this project before and never had another issue for 6 years.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

Old style tube was an assembly of 3 separate parts, so it could come apart to pass through the holder bracket easily. New style tube was a single piece. The moldings on either end are too large to slip through the holder bracket circular ring. Apparently, the newer style holder brackets have a slit or break in the ring. Not so with the older bracket I had. I merely cut my own slit at the top of the ring on my old bracket, allowing me to spread the ring wide enough to allow either end of the single-piece tube to pass through. There is very little pressure on the holder bracket ring - it's just a holster for the tube. So the slit does not affect performance. Job done in 30 min.