WTW5000DW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Went with the instructions

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I watched the video and for the most part the first part of the repair went well. I carefully stored the screws, but despite what the video suggested the part did NOT just slide out. Upon further inspection I discovered two small screws in the top of the valve housing affixing it to the machine. Since it was to narrow an are to use a driver I was forced to remove the housing that holds the timer, which involved removing the knob and a small screw. On each side of the housing was a metal clip and true to form I was able to loosen one side but the other the clip launched into orbit. After a thorough inspection of the floor I found said clip. I was then able to remove the housing and loosen the two screws. Of interest is the fact that the new part had molded places for screws different that the video. After that replacing everything went smoothly and I was able to hook up the washer as the repair was successful.

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

remove basket and replace drive hub kit

Part fixed it perfectly.

followed the instructions on the video, very easy install

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

Tip the washer on its back remove the agitator install new one under 15 minutes

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Took the Cover off and installed belt.

Spin indicator light was illuminated but machine was repeating rinse cycle rather than spinning water out of clothes. Replaced the pulley and drive coupler, thinking there was a mechanical problem. Video instructions were great but old pulley and drive coupler looked perfect so replacing them did nothing. Next I replaced the washer actuator (shifter), thinking that was the reason for no high speed spin. Easy job, as shown in the video, but it also did nothing. The problem turned out to be a failure in the control panel, probably resulting from years of vibration. Decided to stop chasing my tail and bought a new washer.