7MWTW1604DM0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

Remove softener dispencer, use flat tip screw driver to remove agitator cap, there is a slot, insert flat tip screw driver and pry up, once removed you will see the damaged dogs or cogs, use 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 or 12 inch extention and if memory serves me correct a 9/16 socket, loosen bolt and remove top agitator, there is a thrust washer between bottom and top agitator, it comes in the kit, use a little grease preferrably water resistant grease on top of washer, replace top agitator then the plastic device that the cog are inserted into and tighten bolt, put agitator cover back on with a gentle slap of the palm and reinstall softener dispencer, you are done and cloths will agitate properly again, fairly easy job and washer agitator works like new, great kit, would reccomend.

Followed the directions provided. Took less than 15 minutes and the washer works like new.

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

took off the soap dispenser, removed the agitator using a 7/16" socket with an extension. replaced the old top agitator dogs and retaining ring with new ones, re-installed top agitator on bottom, thenput whole assembly back shaft, dropped in bold and tightened. whole experience was fast and simple. the parts came fast and where a perfect fit.

I bought the cog kit. Nice directions on how to assemble but their were no instruction on how to disassemble the agitator. I wound up replacing the whole agitator for $60 vs $6 for the parts I needed. The agitator had only one nut (which you had to take off to get at the cog assembly anyway. The agitator is the way to go. The cogs are halfway down the top part of agitator with no way the get them out without a special tool or ruining the bottom part of the agitator as the clips are part of the bottom piece. If you need special tools they should be listed. If you need to be a trained technician that should also be stated. To give you parts in the middle of an assembly with no instruction on how to put them in the assembly is plain wrong.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

I popped of the fabric softner dispenser at the top auger by appling pressure with both thumbs rather than use the notch provided. This gives access to the agitator mounting bolt which was removed with a deep socket and extension on a ratchet handle. The agitator slipped right off the splined shaft by pulling upward at two points at the bottom. I ordered the complete agitator repair kit which included a part that improved the operation of the top auger, it may have been a factory upgrade at some point on this machine. I did use silicone grease where required and I feel that this is a must for longevity of the thrust washer. If you are ordering the complete kit, the o-ring seal for the inner cap is included. The machine washes like it was new.

First removed the cap, took out the screw, pulled out old agitator and replaced it with the new one

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

I laid the washer on its front side to access underneath. I removed the original washer pulley system and actuator very easily to replace them with the new parts. The new/updated model actuator for my machine was a little bit challenging to maneuver around existing parts to make work, but I eventually got it installed. The plug was angled very differently than the original plug on the actuator, but it was a tight fit. There was no issue installing the washer pulley system. Hooked washer back up to power, water lines, drain line, and the washer has been working perfectly since.