7MLSQ9659PG1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The repair is very easy with the part found at PartSelect.com. Take the following steps to replace the water level switch:
1. Remove the front panel by unscrewing two screws on the back side
2. Pull off the dial knob from the front
3. Twist the water level switch in either way to remove the switch from the panel
4. Disconnect the connector of control wires and water hose from the broken switch
5. Reconnect the control connector and water hose
6. Push and twist the switch to put back on the front panel
7. secure the front panel by tighten up two screws on the back side of panel

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.

First I removed the fabric softner dispenser. Then I removed cap took screw out removed agitator asseembly put new one in then I put screws back in.

!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...

removed old hose clamps and hose using pliers. Installed new hose which had all new clamps preinstalled on new hose.

We ordered both the motor coupling and the clutch assembly based on our troubleshooting, and because we figured both parts were inexpensive enough we might as well have them both. We initially thought it was the clutch assembly, but as we were taking the washing machine apart, we noticed that actually one of the bolts was missing completely and one had snapped in two. We then realized that the spin cycle problem was actually related to the instability of the motor because of the missing/broken bolts (they didn't even have washers!). All we had to do was replace the bolts and use a bolt extractor to get the broken bolt out, but we went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly as well for good measure. Everything ran perfectly after that! I was very skeptical to do the repair myself, but it really is easy, as long as you have someone with muscle to help out. You can also look up videos online that show you a step by step repair process for the clutch assembly, and I would highly recommend doing that so that you have a visual. It will make everything seem 100x easier.

Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

I watched the video from the web site, decided that pulling the whole case was more work than needed. I tipped the washer back at about 45 degrees so that I could get under it and braced it so that it would not fall back fwd. Put a medium cooking bowl under the pump, used a channel locks to remove the 2 spring clamps that where around the hoses and slide the hoses off and let the water drain into the bowl. Then used a medium straight slot screw driver to release the clips from each side of the pump and slid the pump off the shaft. If you turn the clips 90 degrees they will slip out and had to remove the upper clip to get the pump out. Lined up the pump and the shaft making sure that the flat side of shaft and pump lined up and slid it on. Reinstalled the pump clips and slid the hoses back on the pump slide the clamps back in place lowered the washer and test ran it for leaks. Great Job NO leaks. Whole job took me less than 30 minutes.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Replaced agitator cog/clutch unit under the softener dispenser. It is the second time I've replaced it in the last 3 years, maybe it has been loaded too heavy, I'll have to have that talk with everyone else on the family who does laundry.

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.