3RLSQ8600WW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

First I pulled the liquid softener dispenser from the top of the agitator. Then I pulled (also by hand) the cover that was beneath it. That revealed the bolt holding the agitator in place. I loosened this with a socket set and removed it. The old Cam-Agit, which was stripped, popped out and the new one popped in. I then reassembled everything in reverse order and was done in approximately 5 minutes. The agitator works great now and we are no longer getting clumps of powder detergent in the clothes from lack of agitation.

Pushed the new one into place. No tools, no fuss and very little swearing involved. Clogg was caused by erroneously pouring the liquid detergent into the very handy opening reserved for fabric softener. I'd love to say my wife did that, but.... no, it was me. NOW, the real story. I ordered the part via the web at 10:00 a.m. It was delivered to me at 9:30 a.m. the next morning via Fed Ex. Wow! Great job at PartSelect.

I removed the softener cup, unscrewed the bolt and replaced the cam kit. Super easy just like everyone else said. Parts were here very quickly and at a great price!

Pulled out old hose and replaced with new one. Very simple and easy.

Removed the liquid softener cartridge.
Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers.
Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension.
Lifted the agitator out.
Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces.
Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator.
Reversed the whole process.

I first took the 2 screws out and disconnected the wires, I got my parts ordered and when they came in I put it back together then plugged th wires back in. I really could not believe that I could do something of this nature but when I started it was easy. My boyfriend wanted to take the washer to a repair shop, but I said first I will take a look and see if it will be worth saving. Otherwise I will junk it. It cost me with shipping costs 41.00 I am very proud of my self.
But I read other peoples experience on fixing the same problem that I had so I gave it a try.
I will not hesitate to do other jobs myself. Doreen Finlaw

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

Begin by removing the fabric softener dispenser then the barrier cap can be pulled from the agitator this will allow access to the agitator retainer bolt use an 11mm socket and extension to remove it once the bolt is out the agitator assembly can be pulled straight up out of the machine. To separate the upper agitator from the lower placing the agitator on the floor and placing your feet on the lower half and pulling up on the upper half will separate the two parts, however before performing this operation the agitator cam assembly may be heat set in place, looking down into the upper agitator there are four lugs that hold the cam in place if you use a sharp knife and cut thru the areas that have been heated and welded together separation of the two half's will be made easier. Once all the old cam parts are out reassemble the new parts the same way as the old ones were removed, the cam kit and the thrust washer kit come with a diagram in case you forget how to reassemble the parts. The agitator assembly simply slips back onto the drive splines, the attachment bolt has a seal under it that can be crushed if the attachment bolt is tightened too tight, I could not find a torque specification for this bolt so what I did was tighten the bolt until it contacted the seal completely and then applied just enough torque to turn the bolt until the agitator began to turn along with the bolt, then just install the barrier cap and seal and replace the fabric softener dispenser and the job is done, if you're washer is like mine I spent more time cleaning parts than actually performing this repair.

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!