LAT7800ABX Maytag Washer - Instructions

took hose off then took three 5/16 screws then clamp off reversed order to put back on check for leaks ok

The hot water side would fill quickly but the cold water filled very slowly. The seloniods and the valve is built all into one unit. I ordered and replace the part in no time at all. Now both hot and cold water fill quickly.

1. Identify washer model and symptom
2. review page of suggested part; view installation video
3. order part with standard shipping
4. receive part next day and install just as the video showed

Entire job from going to PartSelect website to completion took less than 24 hours. Hardest part was moving the washing machine. Machine is nineteen years old and now works perfectly. Unmatched service.

I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

unplugged electricity from socket, turned water feed off at spigots, put plastic basin to catch water under place where hoses connect to washer, used pliers to turn disconnect hoses from washer and let them drain into basin. unfastened top screw on panel (only one) and tipped the old water inlet valve connections out over basin -- still spilled water onto floor, though. unfastened two screws holding old valve assembly to panel, set panel aside. loosened clamp screw on hose, moved hose off old valve -- a little water spilled out. held new assembly in similar position as moved wires one by one. used dry cloth to make sure electrical connections dry, then put hose back on, tightened clamp screw, fastened assembly to panel, fastened panel to washer, fastened hoses to valve, waited a half hour hoping any water on wires had dried, turned on water, washed clothes -- success!

Made sure I had the right part. Inlet Valve looked just like the one on the website. Unpluged washer. Removed screws and water hoses. Disconnected wires from old Inlet valve and reconnected to new Valve. Disconnected water line from Inlet valve to washer tub. Reconnected water lines. Ran a test cycle. Works great. Wife very happy. Therefore, so am I.

I removed the front of the washer then lifted the top up and swiveled it to the right. The solenoid is located in the back left. I remove the solenoid retaining screws from the the back of the washer, pulled the wires form the connectors on the top and bottom solenoids (hot and cold) and removed the defective valve. The new unit fit exactly! the total time to replace the solenoid valve was 25 minutes.

Removed door panel to get to the electric control conponents and noticed a burned wire to one of the door microswitches. Ordered the door switch repair kit from PartSelect. Also, ordered and replaced the thermal fuse at the same time since it was only $12 and didn't know if that blew at the same time the switch cooked. I had the parts coming standard delivery (3-5 days), but they arrived the very next day. Parts included easy to follow directions.Job went pretty smooth and the dishwasher works again Good experience!