MAH4000BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

The replacement was not complicated. It took me more time because the details are not in the videos and I had to do it twice because I didn't get the seal on correctly the first time. I used the Neptune videos available on you tube for the basics. Use the "inspecting front door lock wax motor" video for a start, but be sure to take off the top front crosspiece also for easier access to the spring that tensions the seal retainer cable. You don't have to disconnect any wires, just lay the door lock assembly gently to the left of the washer. The old seal comes off very easily, using the front loader door seal video. My washer was an early one without the drain tube so I had to get the drain tube and clamps separately and drill out the tub nipple to the left below the seal. I used the biggest drill bit I had that fit inside the nipple. The tub is plastic and very easy to drill. Most of the plastic shavings will come out toward you if you drill slowly and don't push too hard on the drill. I also used my shop vac to try and get out any other shavings. I used dish washing liquid as a lubricant to help put the seal on and used too much. It doesn't take very much. The spring that tightens the inner seal clamp/cable was very hard to attach and it did require two locking pliers [vise-grips] and quite a lot of effort. You have to hook one end of the spring to the cable that wraps around the seal, hold the other end of the cable with locking pliers, the free end of the spring with locking pliers, and stretch the spring to hook it to the free end of the cable. There are some other methods described in various forums and one of them might work better for you. When I was an auto mechanic we had a special tool that helped attach springs like this on drum brakes. I was sure wishing that tool was still in my tool chest but it was not. This was the most difficult part for me, getting the cable and spring all in place and stretching the spring without dislodging the seal and having to start all over.I didn't get the seal aligned correctly the first time and had to do it over after putting ever thing back together and washing a load of clothes. I could have avoided that by carefully inspecting the seal before I put everything together. When you put it back together the end of that red or green nylon line that looks like weed eater line goes under the soap/bleach dispenser bezel on the top so you can manually open the door if the wax motor goes bad and it won't unlock.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

Using online disassembly instructions removed and replaced front and rear bearings. Then attempted to install the seal kit that was purchased online from partselect. Com. Was supposed to receive both seals plus lubricant so that no matter which seal I needed I would be covered. The kit I received had 2 seals that were identical. . . I needed, as it turned out the early seal kit, but unfortuneatly I had 2 revised kits. Of course I tried to assemble one but it just won't work. The seal kit must be the correct one. I didn't give up. I ordered another seal kit online from appliance partspros. Com and received both kits as advertized. . . One being the early version plus a small packet of grease along with all the other required loose parts and was able to complete the repair. The second time around proved much easier because of the experience factor.

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

I went on your site and found out the Bearings were not sold separately by Maytag and that they wanted $800.00 for the entire outer tub in which the bearings are pressed into. I read another post on your site where someone referenced some NSK bearing part numbers. I went to my local auto parts store that cross referenced the NSK number to Timken Bearings (a high quality automotive bearing). Following the instructions I hammered out what was left of the old bearings cleaned everything and pressed in the new bearings. When the Lip Seal kit arrived I pressed in the new seal following the instructions provided, reassembled the washer and it’s as good as new. Total cost just over $100 in parts and a few hours labor. Removal of the old bearings was a difficult task especially since mine were in such bad condition as water must have been slowly leaking into them for some time. If you have some basic automotive repair skills and or some knowledge of how to remove and replaced pressed in bearings I would recommend this repair. In my case money was the motivating factor with 2 kids in college and a wife who would have insisted on a new matching set of a washer and a dryer instead of just replacing the washer.

I referenced the enclosed instructions, and U tube videos, along with gasket I also changed the bearings for about $40. From local grainger, it seems to have solved problem, thanks for quick shipping,

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

I just replaced the pump.

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

Received motor control board and new motor in one day - awesome! Took off front panel, disconnected power and water supplies. Disconnected wiring connections between motor control board and motor. Removed old control board. Removed back access panel. Replaced old motor with new motor. Put rear access panel back on. Installed new motor control board. Reconnected wiring connections between motor and control board. Put front panel back on. Reconnected power and water supplies. Done! The hardest part was moving my stack washer/dryer around to get at the rear access panel. I ended up putting the entire unit "face down" to make it easy to get access to the motor. Instructions that came with the motor/board kit were easy to follow. Only down side - I believe my old motor still worked fine. I'm sorry I had to replace it to replace the motor control board. Machine works great now.

Followed instructions that came with replacement part, good as new!

I removed the rear access panel, used a nut driver and pliers to remove the old hose. I tried to connect the new hose with the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. I gave up on that after a few attepmts because the clamp was very hard to manipulate with standard pliers. I used a standard screw type hose clamp (2") that I had instead. The tub end was easier because a standard hose clamp was used there already. The washer no longer leaks, and I saved a lot of money by doing the job myself!

Unplug washer.Take off front panel by removing several screws. Lift up top after removing left and right side hold down bracket. Remove wax motor(brown item on left) The rotating latch will be free to remove and replace with new items. Don't forget to reattach spring. I found that my latch was not fully engaging with the teeth slightly misaligned. The locked light was on however there are two switches. One to control the lock light and one which enables the final spin to occur. After the items were changed unit ops normally. Also fast delivery (2 day) regular shipping!