7MMVWC220AW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.

Thanks for making finding part so easy . . . .

took out old agitator and installed new one, machine now runs like new. couldn't be happier.

I popped the cap off of the agitator. I could see the grabbers weren't grabbing the side of the agitator. I thought I could take a shot at fixing it since I was ready to give up. Happened upon this site. With the model number, I was very easily able to find the parts I needed. Ordered them up. Took one bolt out of the assembly and the whole agitator came off. I popped in the new parts as the diagram was very easy to follow, resecured the bolt, and all was good. I saved a ton of money off replacement or even calling a service tech. Your site made this very easy with the detailed diagrams. Didn't order anything I didn't need. Only cost $11 to fix it and made me feel like Mr. Fixit. I will definitely use your site as my first, best choice for any problems I have in the future.

The process to replace the nylon pieces was to remove the protective cap, (which snaps in place),agitator (which is held in place with a nut) you will need a socket with an extention to reach the nut, and worn parts. replace the agitator repair kit, agitator and protective cap and your washer works as good as new. This is a very simple repair job, even a 10 yr old could do this

I ordered these parts for next day delivery. The next morning they were on my door step!

I pulled off the plastic cover inside the agitator, under the softener dispenser and replaced the old "O" rign with the new one. Next I used a 3/8" socket with a 6" extension to loosen the agitator nut and removed it. The one on our machine was on rather tightly - a bit too tight in my estimation.

The upper part of the agitator lifted easily. I lifted out the cog mechanism and studied it. I took the new parts, and assembled them, using the old parts for visual reference. All of this took about ten minutes. Be sure you push firmly on the retainer until it locks in place to keep the cogs in their slots.

Next I spent about 15 minutes cleaning up the agitator just because I like to put stuff back together in 'clean condition'.

Next I replaced the thrust bearing. The instruction specified a special grease to lubricate the thrust bearing - order this when you order the parts. The original one had no grease on it and was quite worn. I used food grade vaseline. You could probably also use silicone lube on this, the part is nylon.

After I cleaned the assembly and put in the new thrust bearing, I replaced the agitator. I had slight difficulty lining up two grooves on the cog holder for the guides in the main agitator mount but got them lined up on the third try - that took less than a minute. I put the new washer on the nut, inserted the nut and tightened it down - be careful not to over tighten, just make sure it is snugged down.

Over-all this is a fairly straight-forward repair job and is not difficult - anyone who can follow easy to read instructions and run a socket wrench can do this. I would only caution to make sure the new cogs are correctly oriented in their holder. Study how the original is assembled so you can duplicate it with the new parts. Just for the record, the nut is standard right hand thread - lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I think these parts are made to fail on purpose - if the machine gets over loaded and the agitator can't work it will chew up the cogs rather than break the agitator. Good thinking on some engineer's part!

I was lucky when I found Parts Select - I'll come here for my parts from now on!

Ordered the agitator repair kit and it came very fast.. Followed the instructions, the kit had all the parts needed.. Took around 30 minutes, but some of that was scraping the built up scale from the agitator itself, you might not have to do that.. Easy job.. Agitator now works like new.. Very Happy, and so is my wife, the kids looked and said, "Hey,my jeans go down to the bottom now, cool..!!"

Removed old agitator and determined teeth in center were worn down. Purchased new upper agitator assembly and repair kit. It now works like a new washer. (NOTE: It wasn't until after I did the repair that I heard 15 years is quite old for a washer. But it cost me $40 to repair compared to $500 to replace. I hope it lasts another 15 years!)

1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy.
Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go.
All For less than $20.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

Removed 5 screws on back, released 2 retention clips on front, lifted top of washer to expose lock assembly, removed 2 screws holding lock assembly in place followed electrical line back to plug behind control panel plugged new lock in, and reassembled in reverse order. Done!

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

I needed an air impact wrench to remove the single nut. It was stuck on there. Once the Nut. Was removed it was an easy repair. Perfect fit! Just pop it on the shaft and replace the bolt. Since I had my air tools out already I gave it a couple of dugga duggas.

I ordered a lid switch because the washer wouldn't agitate. Most reviews indicated that was the problem. While waiting for the part to arrive, I discovered the transmission to be of fault.I let parts select know that I no longer needed the part. Parts Select gave me an immediate refund no questions asked and before I returned the part to them. That is customer service!! I will use Parts Select for all my future purchases. I can trust a company that trusts its customers.
Joe M. San Jose

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.