MAT12CSDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Terry from MOUNTAIN BRK, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP212716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer is 27 years old. The washer lid bumpers were just worn out with age. It has been in constant use all these years raising 4 children with no other service or repairs. It has a matching dryer with the same track record. What a testament!
Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks
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- Customer:
- William from Bedford, MA
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
30-Year Old Maytag Model 408 Washer Tank Leaking
This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.
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- Customer:
- Gary from ENUMCLAW, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP211948
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Agitator was moving very slowly.
Unhooked water and drain lines, Unplugged electrical. Removed the two phillips screws at the bottom of the front cover. Removed the Front cover. TIpped machine backwards at about a 45 degree angle using a 2x4 to support the machine. Removed the pump belt and the drive belt. Installed the old pump belt and the new drive belt. Loosened the 3 each 5/16" bolts holding the pump mechanism and moved pump to the left. Moved pump to right to tighten pump belt and tightened the left pump bolt. Loosend the one pump bolt and pulled the motor to the left to tighten the drive belt and holding in this position I tightened the pump screws, Pump belt was now looser than the drive belt. Ran washer and it worked perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Michell from TOOMSUBA, MS
- Parts Used:
- WP211726
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing hinge lid ball
Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.
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- Customer:
- DAVID from LAKE CYRSTAL, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Tub Did Not Drain
Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .
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- Customer:
- Eric from Victoria, MN
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Water leaking from underside of washer tub
I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.
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- Customer:
- John from Winnetka, IL
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
Leaking at center shaft when motor stopped
The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....
Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.
I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.
Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.
Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.
Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.
I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.
Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.
Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.
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- Customer:
- Frank from SANTA ROSA, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10841140
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
leaking front door. loose seal.
Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking
Dishwasher front still leaking
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- Customer:
- Peter from Pacific Palisades, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP212716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washing machine lid kept banging shut and rattled when the clothes were being washed.
I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.
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- Customer:
- steven from cape coral, FL
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
leaking from beneath the washer
I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.
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- Customer:
- Bill from Ypsilanti, MI
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Water leak from underneath the tub.
I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Little Egg Harbor, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Washer leaked from below tub
First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Madison, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The impeller on the drain pump failed
After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.
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- Customer:
- Frances from Mill Spring, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP213720
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washing Machine wouldn't agitate
First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.
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- Customer:
- DAVID from SANDY HOOK, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP22002960
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
Bad tube seals and bearings
Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.
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