LAT7300AGX Maytag Washer - Instructions

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

When the part came in, it was just a matter of getting the old part out, and replacing it! Incredibly smooth---the hold down screws were obvious, so once I got them out---the part came out of the machine, I disconnected the two control wires, reconnected them to the new part---and reinstalled!

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

Followed web instructions.

Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Simple removal of the mounting plate holding the old valve to the rear of the machine followed by disconnection of the water hose to the washer from the valve and unplugging of four electrical connections. Reattached the new valve to the water hose and then reattached the new valve to the mounting plate, finally reconnecting the wiring connections (4). Installation completed by reattaching the valve mounting plate to the washer. The diagnosis was confirmed by blowing into the old valve's water inlet. Air would pass through the valve, confirming that it did leak when the valve was closed. Air blown through the new valve prior to installation would not pass through the new valve.

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

I found that the water was coming from top of syphon break. Took it out located it on computor , ordered part. Took about 10 min to replace. EASY

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

The hot water side would fill quickly but the cold water filled very slowly. The seloniods and the valve is built all into one unit. I ordered and replace the part in no time at all. Now both hot and cold water fill quickly.