LAT7300AGX Maytag Washer - Instructions

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

After reading partselect.com and a few other web sites, I thught the leak was either a hose clamp, hose, or syphon break.

1. Two screws at the bottom front are removed,
2. Bottom front moved away from the machine unitl the top clips allow it to come off.
3. Remove 2 hex head screws from the lid (look up, use a nut driver or I used a socket.
4. LIft the lid from the front (similar to lifting a car hood)
5. Syphon Break is in the top back right.
6. 4 screws in the back and a hose clamp that connects to the pump.
7. Put it all back together in reverse.

I had considered replacing the hoses while I was at it, but they all looked fine. Suggest you order the Syphone Break "Kit" because it contains clamp, and ring gasket that is between the break and the discharge elbow.

Works Great! Saved myself at least $150 in service call and parts markup.

Agitator motor burned out -- purchased new one through Parts Direct (parts still available) 4 bolts and plug and play wire harness and now runs like new.

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

un hook electric and shut off water:
had to remove top of washer
remove two screws holding valve in place
un hook water line and elec. wires from valve
reverse to put new valve on
Billy Myers
Alamogordo,NM 88310

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

It was really quite simple. I found out where the leak was coming from by taking off the front panel and running the washer through the drain cycle. PartSelect website was right on for what part I needed and delivered it promptly. The installation video from PartSelect couldn't have been more clear. I removed a few screws from the back of the washer and installed the new part in about 1 hour. All was good.

I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.

The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.

To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.

Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.

I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.

Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!

Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.

First you turn off the main water supply or turn off the valves at the wall behind the washer unit. Second you disconnect the hot and cold water lines going to the washer unit valve. You then use 1/4 closed end wrench to remove one screw. Then you use a flat head screw driver to remove the two screws holding the valve in place. At this point use a 1/4 socket drive to loosen the clamp that is holding the hose that feeds water to the valve. Remove the hose. Then you disconnect the four wires and re-connect the wires to the new valve. Re-install the hose to the valve. Then you are ready to put it all back together.

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of the front of the washer and pried the front off. Then removed 2 more screws for the top of washer and rocked it back to expose the water inlet vavle. Removed the water inlvet vavle and replaced it. Then put it all back together. Done

Change the position of electrical connection on inlet valve before installation to match positions of old valve. Shut off electricy and water to washer. Disconnected water hoses, and power wires to old valve. Removed old valve and installed new valve exactly as installed on old valve. Washer operated perfectively

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .

I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I removed the two screws that held the top down. This allowed me to see the siphon valve when I lifted the top up. I disconnected the hose from the pump to the siphon valve by taking off the 2 clamps. Then I went to the back of the washer and moved the drain hose from the back by looseneing the clamp. Then I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the siphon valve in from the back. I took off the old valve put the new valve in and reversed the process to reinstall. It fixed the problem.