A23CSW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Instead of replacing one damage hose, i decided to replace the whole piece. the second hose was old and i figure ill just take care of one problem now and prevent a future problem. it was as simple and quick, save me some money from hiring a repair man. it was also a learning experience.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

You will need 2 hose clamps not sold as maytag parts.

Remove front washer panel screws.

Remove bolts holding front of top to side panels

Remove hose clamp from front hose to injector sleeve.

Twist fill hose ccw 90 degrees at tub fitting to remove.

Clean corrosion at tub attachment point wuth wire brush.

Paint bare metal to seal. Allow to thoroughly dry.

Remove injector sleeve and injector hose.

Trim new injector hose to match length of removed hose (I cut off abt 4 inches)

Install injector hose and plastic sleeve. Ensure clocking is correct on hose.

Install gasket on fill hose fitting.

Insert fitting into tub. Rotate 90 deg CW to latch.

Install gear clamps loosely on fill tube.

Attach fill tube to fill fitting and injector sleeve.

Slide clamps onto tube ends ensuring clamp clocking provides access and clears tub top..

Test tub fill to ensure injector works without leaks

Did repair as instructed by video, I'm 74 years old if I can do it anybody can!

1. Unplug machine.
2. Removed front cover,(2 screws).
3. Removed top cover,(2 screws).
4. Remove hose at top (twist lock), loosen clap holding hose at bottom.
5. Reverse procedure, attach clamp at bottom, attach hose at top(twist lock).
6. Plug in machine, turn on (fill), check for leaks.
7. Re-attach top
8. Re-attach front.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

simply removed old motor and replaced with new

unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order

After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve.

I then order the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!

Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.