MAT13MNDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

Replaced the hose and new clamps. Rans washer through complete cycle. Found that during the spin cycle the tub seemed un-balanced and was making a metallic ticking sound.
Found that the thre struts which attach to the tub were loose-- especially the front nut. Found two halves of lead washer laying on bottom of washer cabinet. The washer had fallen out from behind the front strut and nut. Placed the washer back between the strut and tub and tightened the nut and the metallic sound was gone as well as most of the tub swaying during the spin cycle. Tightened all three strut's nuts. Ran washer through and additional cycle and washer was back to normal. The loose nuts seem to have caused excessive tub sway which in turn put extra stress on the tub hose connection to cause the original leak. Machine is 25 years old and still washing well!

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

replaced hose

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Being mechanically inclined, I found this repair pretty straight forward. First, watch the video and keep returning to it to double check yourself. Second, find someone with the spanner wrench, or purchase one. I called a appliance repair shop, and they loaned me one with a refundable deposit. My only compliant is the the out side tub bolts have a rubber washer that is not included with the repair parts kit. Inspect the rubber or find replacements. As the video explains, "TIGHTEN THE NUTS not the BOLTS", this will keep the old rubber washers from twisting. Recommend replacing your transmission shaft bearing and wash tub seal at the same time, If you can afford them.

I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.

I followed the directions given me from parts select. I used the instructional YouTube videos. Both gave me the courage to do this project myself. The 35 year old wash machine works perfect !

Remove front panel removed two screws holding top down, then removed plastic tube cover, removed balancer to make more room to work. Next removed set screw holding dasher, next remove spanner nut that held inner tube shield. Tthen lifted inner tube out of washer, now I removed the stem hold down and seal important clean area where seal touches the tube nowuse little water to wet new seal pt new seal ln careful not to damage simply reverse removal step and put the unit back together

After watching the repair on the video, I was confident that I could complete this job. The only tool I did not have was the special wrench for the retaining nut. I would recommend changing out the Bearing along with the seal. Due to the proximity of the seal, the bearing will most likely fail about the same time. The inner and outer tubs in my machine needed a thorough cleaning unlike the pre-cleaned demonstration washer in the video. A cheap plastic putty knife was great tool to scrape off the 14 years of detergent and lime sludge on the tubs. Allow yourself additional time to get everything clean as you disassemble the washer. The only snag I ran into was removing the corroded aluminum retaining nut. A cold chisel and hammer cut it off without much problem and a new nut was supplied with the kit. My old Maytag washer is now running like a champ and with no leaks.

watched video, ordered parts, parts arrived fast in two days, watched video again, Repaired washer saved money

The video was very usefull> however could not find the (specialty tool) as seen on You tube the nut was so corroded that it would not of helped anyway. Used punch and hammer.Make sure you back out the locking set screw all the way out other wise it may strip threads. Overall the repair went well. But only lasted 2 weeks and started to leak again. May be due to worn bearing? Not sure Getting new washer instead of repairing this one. I would also order the bearing too if the washer has been leaking for any legth of time,Good luck.