MAT13MNDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Replaced hose. Really appreciate Instructions, especially from other customers. Only thing I didn't have was new hose clamps, since this Maytag washer is 35 years old! (Love it! Works great!) Old hose clamps were absolutely rusted beyond any possible recovery, so I had a little trouble getting them off until I sprayed them with penetrating oil. Buying local clamps not a problem.

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

Used the Butter knife to push in the clips on the front panel of the washing machine. Remove the two screws from the top. Remove the metal plate on the back. Lifted up the top and unscrewed the old Fill Injector and removed hose. Connected new Fill Injector to hose with new hose clamp. Attached Fill injector with screw to top of washer lid. Replaced all screws. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.

Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .

Removed two screws that hold front of machine, then removed front.

Removed old hose clamps and hose. Installed new hose with NEW hose clamps.


Ordered part on line on a Thursday, it arrived the next afternoon via FedX. Very quick service.

Unhooked water and drain lines, Unplugged electrical. Removed the two phillips screws at the bottom of the front cover. Removed the Front cover. TIpped machine backwards at about a 45 degree angle using a 2x4 to support the machine. Removed the pump belt and the drive belt. Installed the old pump belt and the new drive belt. Loosened the 3 each 5/16" bolts holding the pump mechanism and moved pump to the left. Moved pump to right to tighten pump belt and tightened the left pump bolt. Loosend the one pump bolt and pulled the motor to the left to tighten the drive belt and holding in this position I tightened the pump screws, Pump belt was now looser than the drive belt. Ran washer and it worked perfectly.

Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.

Drain tub of all water. Unplug washer power cord from outlet. Remove the rear compartment cover at base of washer then using pliers(channel locks) slide the compression retaining rings off the top and bottom of hose. Replace with new hose and hose clamps, Tighten hose clamps in place until snug, being careful not to overtighten because the tub outlet and pump inlet are plastic!
Pour water into tub to check for leaks. Install rear cover and drain hose.

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....

Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.

I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.

Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.

Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.