MAT13MNDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions
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water tub leak, severe vibration while spining
all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill
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- Customer:
- Frances from Dixon, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2011900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Making squealing sound
Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!
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- Customer:
- JOHN from SANTA FE, NM
- Parts Used:
- WP213045
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
water was leaking on floor
1. Remove front panel with phillips screw driver.
2. Remove hose from drum and exit pump
3. replace hose with new one (used some silicone grease on hose)
4. Tightened clamps with nut driver
5. ran a couple loads of wash to check for leaks
6. found none
7. replaced front panel - Job done
2. Remove hose from drum and exit pump
3. replace hose with new one (used some silicone grease on hose)
4. Tightened clamps with nut driver
5. ran a couple loads of wash to check for leaks
6. found none
7. replaced front panel - Job done
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- Customer:
- Terry from MOUNTAIN BRK, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP212716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer is 27 years old. The washer lid bumpers were just worn out with age. It has been in constant use all these years raising 4 children with no other service or repairs. It has a matching dryer with the same track record. What a testament!
Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks
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- Customer:
- William from ANNAPOLIS, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
waterpump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded
new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..
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- Customer:
- Frank from SANTA ROSA, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10841140
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
leaking front door. loose seal.
Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking
Dishwasher front still leaking
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- Customer:
- Michell from TOOMSUBA, MS
- Parts Used:
- WP211726
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing hinge lid ball
Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.
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- Customer:
- DAVID from LAKE CYRSTAL, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Tub Did Not Drain
Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .
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- Customer:
- Eric from Victoria, MN
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Water leaking from underside of washer tub
I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Mariposa, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP213045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Hose had small crack with slight leak when tank was draining.
Removed two screws that hold front of machine, then removed front.
Removed old hose clamps and hose. Installed new hose with NEW hose clamps.
Ordered part on line on a Thursday, it arrived the next afternoon via FedX. Very quick service.
Removed old hose clamps and hose. Installed new hose with NEW hose clamps.
Ordered part on line on a Thursday, it arrived the next afternoon via FedX. Very quick service.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Palm Harbor, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP22001187, WP22001186
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Plastic Fill injector broke. Water was leaking.
Used the Butter knife to push in the clips on the front panel of the washing machine. Remove the two screws from the top. Remove the metal plate on the back. Lifted up the top and unscrewed the old Fill Injector and removed hose. Connected new Fill Injector to hose with new hose clamp. Attached Fill injector with screw to top of washer lid. Replaced all screws. Checked for leaks. Good to go!
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- Customer:
- Peter from Newburgh, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP213045
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
water leaking from tub to pump hose
Drain tub of all water. Unplug washer power cord from outlet. Remove the rear compartment cover at base of washer then using pliers(channel locks) slide the compression retaining rings off the top and bottom of hose. Replace with new hose and hose clamps, Tighten hose clamps in place until snug, being careful not to overtighten because the tub outlet and pump inlet are plastic!
Pour water into tub to check for leaks. Install rear cover and drain hose.
Pour water into tub to check for leaks. Install rear cover and drain hose.
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- Customer:
- John from Winnetka, IL
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
Leaking at center shaft when motor stopped
The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....
Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.
I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.
Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.
Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.
Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.
I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.
Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.
Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.
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- Customer:
- Bill from Ypsilanti, MI
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Water leak from underneath the tub.
I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!
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- Customer:
- Rich from Wheaton, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP213045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer was leaking water at hose to tub connection
Replaced the hose and new clamps. Rans washer through complete cycle. Found that during the spin cycle the tub seemed un-balanced and was making a metallic ticking sound.
Found that the thre struts which attach to the tub were loose-- especially the front nut. Found two halves of lead washer laying on bottom of washer cabinet. The washer had fallen out from behind the front strut and nut. Placed the washer back between the strut and tub and tightened the nut and the metallic sound was gone as well as most of the tub swaying during the spin cycle. Tightened all three strut's nuts. Ran washer through and additional cycle and washer was back to normal. The loose nuts seem to have caused excessive tub sway which in turn put extra stress on the tub hose connection to cause the original leak. Machine is 25 years old and still washing well!
Found that the thre struts which attach to the tub were loose-- especially the front nut. Found two halves of lead washer laying on bottom of washer cabinet. The washer had fallen out from behind the front strut and nut. Placed the washer back between the strut and tub and tightened the nut and the metallic sound was gone as well as most of the tub swaying during the spin cycle. Tightened all three strut's nuts. Ran washer through and additional cycle and washer was back to normal. The loose nuts seem to have caused excessive tub sway which in turn put extra stress on the tub hose connection to cause the original leak. Machine is 25 years old and still washing well!
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