MAH4000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the door and front panel with ease. Then came the spring and cable. People who say it was easy are not telling the whole story. Removing the spring was okay except for it flew across the room. Putting the new cable on with a pair of needlenose pliers did not work for me. I had to get a spring tool like you use on brakes on a car. Once I had the tool and secured the cable in place with a piece of wire I got the spring on. Everything except the spring took about 15 minutes.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Set my iPad on the dryer and played the video. Could not have done it without it. Putting spring back on was the hardest, fell off once. Took that long because video connection timed out and had to get another coffee. Part delivery was quick. Found the drain tube out of the bellows was clogged. If it wasn't for the mildew on the bellows could havw fixed the problem if I had known about a drain at the bottom of the bellows.

I went on your site and found out the Bearings were not sold separately by Maytag and that they wanted $800.00 for the entire outer tub in which the bearings are pressed into. I read another post on your site where someone referenced some NSK bearing part numbers. I went to my local auto parts store that cross referenced the NSK number to Timken Bearings (a high quality automotive bearing). Following the instructions I hammered out what was left of the old bearings cleaned everything and pressed in the new bearings. When the Lip Seal kit arrived I pressed in the new seal following the instructions provided, reassembled the washer and it’s as good as new. Total cost just over $100 in parts and a few hours labor. Removal of the old bearings was a difficult task especially since mine were in such bad condition as water must have been slowly leaking into them for some time. If you have some basic automotive repair skills and or some knowledge of how to remove and replaced pressed in bearings I would recommend this repair. In my case money was the motivating factor with 2 kids in college and a wife who would have insisted on a new matching set of a washer and a dryer instead of just replacing the washer.

Being a seventy five year old man I was reluctant to taking on this job but after getting prices for the repair or replacing the machine I cringed and trying to save some money I took on this job.Got all the information I could find on line I got started.Taking machine apart was easy and remembering to keep parts separated is something I learned from my mechanical back round is a must.Pictures also help.Taking out spinner drum easy.Bearings a nightmare If you don't have a bearing removal tool.Front bearing had to be cut out with a dremel tool and zip wheel being careful not to destroy the race.Removed spindel from spinner drum as I could see that for me to put shaft in hole would have been a problem.Put new improved seal in.Easy part.Reassembled. Springs and clips hard.Washing again and quiet.Wife happy four days later.Old guy sore.All done with outer tub in machine.Estimated savings Big,Big,Big.Getting big steak dinner and big kiss.

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

The front seal had a long slit which leaks water during washing cycle. We followed the repair video every steps and got the old seal off really easy, the most difficult step is to tie the cable with the spring, it is too strong and can not be done with one person. All steps are the same as shown in the video. Thank you for providing the video and the part.

Video repair instructions on the Parts Select site was right on and made the repair very easy. I took a little longer in my repair as I cleaned each piece I took off to make sure there was no dirt/lint/rust/mold remaining. The only difficult part was putting the spring back in place, this took a couple of tries. Other than that, relatively easy to replace and would recommend that anyone with any handyman skill to do this repair/replacement themselves.

Well, if a picture is worth a thousand words, the repair video is priceless! Without it, this repair would have been more difficult, but it was so easy to follow along with the video while doing the repair. I rated it easy, but the reinstallation of the wire and spring holding the bellow in place requires significant pulling power. It took a couple tries to get it on, but other than that, the rest of it is cake. From start to finish, the job took less than an hour, but set aside some time for cleaning behind the washing machine if you haven't pulled it out in a while! Also, I have to mention that the part I received was an identical genuine Maytag part and not a remanufactured knock off. The fit and finish was perfect.

Removed front panel and door, lifted top cover to access door lock. To remove the wax motor, you need to remove the Door Lock/Spin enable switch. Important note, there are two switches so to completely rebuild the door lock, you need get two of the Door Lock/Spin Enable switches. Same part/part number, one is for the door lock and the other for the Spin enable.

Followed the PartsSelect video for the seal replacement, which was step by step and spot on, I just had to add the bearing replacement part myself. Once it was dissembled I drove each bearing out by tapping them with the hammer and drift. My model had no bearing retainer ring. I did not remove the outer drum from the washer. Clean the aluminum hub real well, scrape it with a utility knife to remove corrosion, wipe with a solvent soaked rag, etc. I disagree with other methods ive seen while researching, like a wire brush in a drill, because you will remove aluminum material from the hub and the bearing wont fit as tightly as designed. tap in the rear bearing til fully seated. I did the rear first because gravity then held the spacer in place. Set the spacer in place, noting that one end is "flared" to a larger diameter, so it seats against the larger race of the front bearing. Align and start the front bearing in place. The spacer needs to align with the bearings so it bears against the inner races of the bearings. So to hold it in place I rolled up a piece of light cardstock, slid it thru the spacer and bearing, and as it "uncoiled" it aligned the spacer. Pretty well. I did have to tap the spacer a little with the drift after the bearings were in, but just a little. After that, back to the video for the seal and reassembly. Only other comment I have is to locate the bearings early. I ended up going to grainger for one and Napa for the other. And no one could seem to cross the "DU" part of the original NGK bearing. The DU means it just has seals on both sides. Pretty standard stuff. That could have been easier. Also hold off ordering extra parts. I have found PartsSelect is really quick getting stuff out. I ordered an inner drum because i heard from other research that that could cause the banging noise. My banging noise was from one bearing disinegrating and the balls breaking up inside the hub. Shipping the drum back cost 70. UPS wanted 160. So that could have gone better, but I didn't want to let the machine sit too long. Next time I'll let it sit a couple days.

Removed tub replaced bearings. Put in new seal. Be aware drawing on instruction shows seal cup instaled from wrong side of seal. Other wise went well. Got bearings from McMaster Carr.

I was sick when I heard the noise from our washer. I looked online at new ones and found out it was going to cost between $1000 to $1500 to replace it. While looking online I found the PartSelect site. Unbelievable! I put in the model #, read the posts, ordered the parts and within a few days they were in. Using the video and the posted instructions I took it apart and replaced the bearings and seals. The whole thing took about 3 hours and we were back to washing clothes. Total repair costs were about $160 to $180. Compared to the price of a new washer, you guys saved the day.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.