MAH4000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the door and front panel with ease. Then came the spring and cable. People who say it was easy are not telling the whole story. Removing the spring was okay except for it flew across the room. Putting the new cable on with a pair of needlenose pliers did not work for me. I had to get a spring tool like you use on brakes on a car. Once I had the tool and secured the cable in place with a piece of wire I got the spring on. Everything except the spring took about 15 minutes.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

The front seal had a long slit which leaks water during washing cycle. We followed the repair video every steps and got the old seal off really easy, the most difficult step is to tie the cable with the spring, it is too strong and can not be done with one person. All steps are the same as shown in the video. Thank you for providing the video and the part.

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

Received motor control board and new motor in one day - awesome! Took off front panel, disconnected power and water supplies. Disconnected wiring connections between motor control board and motor. Removed old control board. Removed back access panel. Replaced old motor with new motor. Put rear access panel back on. Installed new motor control board. Reconnected wiring connections between motor and control board. Put front panel back on. Reconnected power and water supplies. Done! The hardest part was moving my stack washer/dryer around to get at the rear access panel. I ended up putting the entire unit "face down" to make it easy to get access to the motor. Instructions that came with the motor/board kit were easy to follow. Only down side - I believe my old motor still worked fine. I'm sorry I had to replace it to replace the motor control board. Machine works great now.

Followed instructions that came with replacement part, good as new!

removed front panel. removed brakets holding top. lifted top hinged backward. Removed tension spring and cable that secures the seal to the drum. Pulled seal out. Put new seal back in. Secured with cable and spring. Reassembled top and front.

easywaterways to diagnos and order the part. Very satisfied.

After removing the door, I pryd the bellows from the front of the washer then removed the front panel. I then rolled the spring from the rear of the Bellow and removed the old Bellow. Once I saw that the front edge of the washer drum was held on with spring clips I decided to remove it and clean the inside of that while I was in there. To get that part out I had to remove a couple cross braces. After cleaning I put it all back together. Getting the spring back on the back of the Bellow was a little challenging. Then put it all back together again. Now it looks great again.

Followed the video, besides the spring, everything was easy.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

Replaced wax motor. You must also replace R11 (3.9 Ohm carbon film resistor (1/4 watt), Q6 Triac (Mouser 526-NTE5656), replaced Jp 18 (jumper) with a fuse (Mouser 576-0251.500HAT1l. This job requires the use of a solder sucker in order to remove parts without lifting up cooper traces.I have had experience with many electronic projects,and could have done this one easier if I still had the proper tools.A solder sucker is cheap, and without it, you will damage the traces. I did, but used a continuity checker to verify I made solder contact with the traces. I have six of these stacked washer/dryers. All failed after about a year of use. I am in absolute disbelief regarding all the stories about how easy this repair is.

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.