MAH4000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

We followed the directions in other people's repair stories here. Removing the spring was a challenge, as was getting it back on! The rest of the repair was simple. Be patient with removing the soap dispenser. Ours had some plastic cords connecting it to the frame which we didn't anticipate, and we broke them because we didn't see them.

We're going to try that new Affresh product in the hopes of avoiding this repair again in the future. We never washed anything harmful in the washer. This seal becomes moldy and deteriorates with time. Using bleach to kill the mold only speeds the process.

Even though after reading many repair blogs saying not to remove the back of the washer, I did anyway. Lo and behold after opening it, the pump was right there!! I removed the hoses (make sure you have a bucket, or shop vac handy) lots of water will come pouring out use your bucket for this, I used my shopvac to suck the rest of the water out of the hose, and bing, the washing maching door opened and allowed my to retrieve my clothing(stinky now after the washing machine held them hostage for days) I removed it by removing 3 bolts, and 1 screw very easy. I took apart the pump to see if there was anything blocking up the moter there was nothing, but the plastic pump blade was chewed up so bad, it no longer would turn to pump out the water. I had to order a pump. When my pump came in 2 short days later, I reversed to removal process and presto!! The washing machine was running like new.

Unscrew door hinges, front panel, soap tray, lift top to 12 oclock position,unhook strap from spring located on top of the drum,tape strap ends to drum to prevent from falling,disconnect the billows drain clamp on the bottom of the billows,remove the billows by peeling off the drum, install the new billows from the top first and tape it to the drum to prevent it from slipping off as you work your way around the drum,install the strap in its track, secure with spring(better with two people)in same location, hook up billow drain, finish doing the laundry.

Removed back of washer and unscrewed pump band and hose removed pump and replaced pump,replaced hose to new pump,WE really appreciated the fast shipping of the part from your facility.Thank You again

I removed the back panel and located on the left side of the washer removed the pump and replaced it.

I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

Be fastidious at removing residual tub water, a wet-vac is your best friend. Repair is best addressed from rear of washer. Caveat!! The drain tube will still contain waste water, as will the tub's ribbed water-exit tube at tub's bottom connected to the water pump. A stitch in time will save agonizing mop-up chores. The pump replacement task was quite forward, no issues at all with this PartsSelect beauty of a replacement, all disconnected it just perfectly slides into its detents. Carefully reinstall (2) small electrical connectors and (3) hoseclamps and you're ready to go.

CSR was friendly and knowledgable. Waterpump was promised for Thursday delivery but arrived on Tuesday, 2-days early. Great service, thank you!!!!

The old lid had come off. Just to spruce up a bit, I removed the bezel with the 4 screws. I cleaned up the surface of the washer and the bezel. I put the bezel back on. I put on the new lid. Took 10 minutes to do what I did. If all I had to do was replace the lid, it would have taken less than 3 minutes.

I hired a Maytag technician.

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

I looked on Utube at some videos which helped a lot all told i replaced the bearings in the outer hub which was quite a chore as the bearings came out rather hard I used a steel rod about 18 inches long and a heavy hammer to pound the old bearings out they came out hard then I put the new bearings in very carefully as I had to tap them back into place and installed the seal and put the new shaft on the tub and slid everything back into place. The instructions that came with the new seal and shaft were very helpful I bought the new bearings from local implement dealer as they were not available with the shaft and seal didn't keep track of my hours probably about 21/2 to 3 hours

Used the conversion kit to replace both parts.Note the supplied instructions say to test the install by running a spin cycle before you put the door and panels back on. However the unit will not initiate a spin cycle without the door lock engaged. Not just the light switch, the actual door lock mechanism. You have to reinstall the door, then test. This error in the instructions cost me about 30 minutes.

Removing the gasket was very easy. A couple hints on installing (1) attach the gasket to the drum first!! this is the trickiest part but once you get it on, attaching the cable and spring was fairly easy (just used two people and a pair of needle nose pliers). Once you get that on, "lube" up the other side with soap to make install easier.

My husband completed the repair by himself. He said that the "string trick" was helpful.

Ordered siphon cap according to FPS parts list. Wrong cap, but I don't care! Customer support was so helpful and willing to do everything to get me the correct cap, to include refunding my purchase price AND shipping before I even sent it back. They will be my first choice for parts in the future! My husband is a "fix it" guy, so I know that will mean a lot of purchases. I look forward to future business with this company!