MAH4000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

My Maytag Neptune quit spinning. I found an on-line diagnostic tree and traced the problem to the wax motor. Testing indicated that the motor had failed even though it was still getting power. The continuity between the wax motor and control board appeared to test good. Based on the apparent diagnostic results, I found PartSelect, read their reviews, and ordered and installed the new wax motor. Once installed, I discovered the new wax motor would not work. I did some more online research .It helped me to find that I had a burned R11 on the control board. It's great for those who want to try their repair skills before ordering a new control board at nearly $350. I I contacted Neptunehelp.com and explained I had just purchased a new wax motor from PartSelect. Neptunehelp sent me the rest of their Stage 1 Repair kit at a discount by eliminating the wax motor in the kit. The kit included solder, a solder wick, a wire to open the printed circuit board holes, and both a new R11 and Q6. The site had a thorough explanation as to why both electronic components should be replaced at the same time...any why both should be replaced if the wax motor has failed. They also had an excellent video on some tricks about installing the wax motor, and an excellent video review on soldering tips if you want to attempt a repair on your own. PartSelect was OK for as far as it went, and the wax motor I purchased now works as it's supposed to. But I hope they will link to the Neptunehelp.com site to assist those who are more adventurous and have more advanced do-it-yourself skills. If you know anything about a VOM and have ever done a little soldering, it may be a better option than buying a wax motor and control board when only the was motor, R11, and Q6 are needed. I've completed the whole repair, including soldering in the new electronic components, and have just completed one wash cycle...the unit now works like new. If you are unsure about your electrical skills, you might want to stick with PartSelect and buy a wax motor and control board. If you're more experienced, and don't mind spending about $50 before having to spend nearly $400, then check out the Neptunehelp.com site for some good one-stop shopping and some good instructional references. They have a couple of contingency plans if the Stage 1 kit fails to fix the problem.

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.

remove door with Phillips remove front panel nut driver remove soap tray lid and lift up top Phillips test small contactors for continuity and replace removed locking sprocket and replaced

Video repair instructions on the Parts Select site was right on and made the repair very easy. I took a little longer in my repair as I cleaned each piece I took off to make sure there was no dirt/lint/rust/mold remaining. The only difficult part was putting the spring back in place, this took a couple of tries. Other than that, relatively easy to replace and would recommend that anyone with any handyman skill to do this repair/replacement themselves.

Well, if a picture is worth a thousand words, the repair video is priceless! Without it, this repair would have been more difficult, but it was so easy to follow along with the video while doing the repair. I rated it easy, but the reinstallation of the wire and spring holding the bellow in place requires significant pulling power. It took a couple tries to get it on, but other than that, the rest of it is cake. From start to finish, the job took less than an hour, but set aside some time for cleaning behind the washing machine if you haven't pulled it out in a while! Also, I have to mention that the part I received was an identical genuine Maytag part and not a remanufactured knock off. The fit and finish was perfect.

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

Removed front panel and door, lifted top cover to access door lock. To remove the wax motor, you need to remove the Door Lock/Spin enable switch. Important note, there are two switches so to completely rebuild the door lock, you need get two of the Door Lock/Spin Enable switches. Same part/part number, one is for the door lock and the other for the Spin enable.

Watched the video, worked just like shown so as quick as you can take out 8 screws you can make the repair. Turned out it was the MCB but maybe this part (wax motor) Will save a main control board failure.

I went on your web site and printed the instructions given by the first entry after the product description. I had called my friend who is also a handy man and he did the repair very quickly [I helped very little]. The directions were very complete and very simple to follow. MAH5522BW

Watched the video. Video was great. Used a vicegrip to stretch spring since it was slipping out of normal pliers.

Found the part on parts select, which also had a very helpful DIY repair video to replace the part. I followed the video step by step to fix the tub cover, and the washer is back to full working condition!!! I could not be happier with Partselect.com. Their easy appliance break down to find the exact part that is broken; but to also include a instructional video for that part was amazing.

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.

The video was great. The only problem was getting the spring back on. It was way too stiff, so I put it in a vise and stretched it a bit. It's a bit fussy but your site made it go pretty easy. thanks

The instructions from Richard of Austin, MN were instrumental in repairing my clothes washer. I am an electronics technician, and my control board failed just like Richard indicated. One thing Richard did not state is that resistor R11 and Q6 did not fail until the wax motor (solenoid) shorted out. If I had used the old wax motor, it would have caused the new parts I installed on the board to fail. I did find the wax motor cheaper on other companies web sites but without the instructions Richard provided, I would have had to spend nearly $300 on a new control board instead of repairing the original board. The two limit switches on the machine can be checked using an ohm-meter, so they only need to be replaced if they do not close when engaged which can be done manually. I found the resistor and Triac at Radio Shack online. I repaired the machine for about $40 total. Michael from Austin, TX