MAH4000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I took off the door and the front of the washing machine. Then, took off the bracket of the soap dispensing bin from the top of the machine. Then lift up the top of the machine, and unscrew the bracket that holds the wax motots, label and pull wires, replace motors and wires and put back together. This is also a good time to clean and dust the interior of the machine. Before replacing, my motor smelled and looked burnt out, instead of paying $300 -$400 to have someone look at it, I investigated and I fixed it for around $30. I hope I get to inspire people to figure things out and save some cash!!

When I found the WAX motor would not cycle I applied 120VAC directly to the WAX motor and machine went into SPIN CYCLE as it should have. Stopped machine and ordered replacement Machine Control Board. Replaced the part and machine works perfectly.

I am happy when PartSelect included the instruction video, so I completed my repair that easy. Thanks the PartSelect. Davis Dao

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

Received motor control board and new motor in one day - awesome! Took off front panel, disconnected power and water supplies. Disconnected wiring connections between motor control board and motor. Removed old control board. Removed back access panel. Replaced old motor with new motor. Put rear access panel back on. Installed new motor control board. Reconnected wiring connections between motor and control board. Put front panel back on. Reconnected power and water supplies. Done! The hardest part was moving my stack washer/dryer around to get at the rear access panel. I ended up putting the entire unit "face down" to make it easy to get access to the motor. Instructions that came with the motor/board kit were easy to follow. Only down side - I believe my old motor still worked fine. I'm sorry I had to replace it to replace the motor control board. Machine works great now.

Followed instructions that came with replacement part, good as new!

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

The front seal had a long slit which leaks water during washing cycle. We followed the repair video every steps and got the old seal off really easy, the most difficult step is to tie the cable with the spring, it is too strong and can not be done with one person. All steps are the same as shown in the video. Thank you for providing the video and the part.

Unplug washer.Take off front panel by removing several screws. Lift up top after removing left and right side hold down bracket. Remove wax motor(brown item on left) The rotating latch will be free to remove and replace with new items. Don't forget to reattach spring. I found that my latch was not fully engaging with the teeth slightly misaligned. The locked light was on however there are two switches. One to control the lock light and one which enables the final spin to occur. After the items were changed unit ops normally. Also fast delivery (2 day) regular shipping!

Video repair instructions on the Parts Select site was right on and made the repair very easy. I took a little longer in my repair as I cleaned each piece I took off to make sure there was no dirt/lint/rust/mold remaining. The only difficult part was putting the spring back in place, this took a couple of tries. Other than that, relatively easy to replace and would recommend that anyone with any handyman skill to do this repair/replacement themselves.

easywaterways to diagnos and order the part. Very satisfied.

After removing the door, I pryd the bellows from the front of the washer then removed the front panel. I then rolled the spring from the rear of the Bellow and removed the old Bellow. Once I saw that the front edge of the washer drum was held on with spring clips I decided to remove it and clean the inside of that while I was in there. To get that part out I had to remove a couple cross braces. After cleaning I put it all back together. Getting the spring back on the back of the Bellow was a little challenging. Then put it all back together again. Now it looks great again.

Removed front panel and door, lifted top cover to access door lock. To remove the wax motor, you need to remove the Door Lock/Spin enable switch. Important note, there are two switches so to completely rebuild the door lock, you need get two of the Door Lock/Spin Enable switches. Same part/part number, one is for the door lock and the other for the Spin enable.

Removed 4 screws and door, lowered and removed front panel,removed screws holding locking tabs for the machine top, removed the four screws holding soap reservoir, lifted the top. Located under the lid and above the doorway I pulled out the wax motor retaineing clip with pliers and the wax motor, used pliers to remove the wire connectors, hooked them up to the new part and reassembled.

When I looked up the part number, there was an installation video on the same page. I ordered the part then and there, and once it arrived, I put the iPad right on top of the machine and paused the video whenever I was doing the steps. It was TOO EASY!