FAV9800AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Maytag made a washer with the dispenser valve in the rear of tub and compartments in the front corners of the tub with chutes in the lid to transfer the water from the dispenser to the compartments. I thought the dispenser valve went out but it was the chutes in the lid were stopped up from hard water. I hooked tubing little bigger than icemaker tubing to the dispenser and through the chutes in the lid to get the water to the front corner compartments on washer. I did wash two or three loads to narrow it down to that. first wash installed new dispenser still did dispense solfner. second wash hooked jumper wire to dispenser and pluged it in at rinse cycle still did not dispense solfner. than I came up with the tubes. FYI I did take all compartment off of washer and ran hot water through them in a bath tub I just did not run a brush through the chutes in lid. When they made the washer in 95 very bad ideal.

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.

The top of the washer cabinet is held down by clips, which are easily pried off using a screwdriver. Next, simply unscrew the mounting screw off the left door lock switch, disconnect the electrical plug and swap the switch assembly. Reassembly and getting back into operation took less than five minutes once the part was received. Thanks, Parts Select!

Used a putty knife to unlatch the top of the washer (on the front of the washer, about 2" in from each side in that small gap near the top of the machine). Just pushed the putty knife in the gap to release the top. The top seemed to be hinged at the back, so I lifted the front up and while holding it, pulled out the damaged splash guard and inserted the new one. I ordered the part on a Wednesday night and received it Friday afternoon with standard shipping. If I ever need appliance parts again, I'll be checking here first.

went on line and looked up service manual for specific model of washer machine. after following detailed directions on how to get to the tub seal began the journey. once I came to removing the drum from the washer had to figure out a way to remove the nut from the drive shaft. there is a tool that can be purchased for 60, but knew there was another way. with some "out of the box" thinking took my 1.75" crescent wrench and held the nut. took a wrench with a skinny handle and placed it in the drive shaft. had to hit the handle a couple of times in order to break the nut free. recommend having two people. its very hard to hold the nut and try to break the nut free from the shaft by yourself.

I paid a knowledgeable person $30.00 to make this repair for me.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

Replaced the pump as per video.

Afterchanging the struts. the unbalance problem continued. The main problem was the clutch assembly, replace it and problem got fix

I just replaced the pump.