MAT14CSAWW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

This model is a compact / apartment size washer and the repair was fairly easy. The lid is held on by 2 spring clips on the front and 2 tabs on the rear. I used a screwdriver to pop the top off the clips, removed the screws on the tabs, unplugged the switch and set the top aside. Took out 2 screws (all screws are 5/16" hex head) on the left side panel (facing the front of the machine) and set it to the side. The pump is clearly visible at this point. Tipped the washer and propped it up for easier access. Removed the 2 hose clamps (set a pan underneath first) and the pump is held in place by 2 spring clips. Popped those off and the pump came right out. Put the new pump in, snapped the spring clips on, put the hose clamps back in place, the side panel and the lid. Not at all hard to do. About 30 to 45 minutes and I was doing laundry again.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

It was a miracle. We were going to get rid of the washing machine because it made so much noise and rattled the whole house. It also 'walked' across the room with every load.
I simply replaced the wear pads (2 of them were already worn away), and now it is as quiet as when it was new. AMAZING!

Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.

I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.

I tipped up the machine and had my wife hold it.
I removed the two hoses with water pump pliers. Then , I removed the two clips with my fingers. The old pump came off in my hands. I installed the two hoses on the new pump with my hands, lined up the pump drive with the hole pushed it in and re-attached the two clips with my hands.
The whole job took maybe five minutes. The hardest part of the job was conviencing my wife that there was no danger involved with the process.

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

watched a video that showed how to repair that you had on your web site. also read some of the remarks that other people left on site, one was super easy. just laid washer on its back, unhooked both water lines from pump. unhooked both metal clips holding pump and pulled off. replaced new pump in reverse order. didn't have to go thru all the procedures of taking off the body or nothing. 15min job.

The repair went fine and the U - Tube video was very helpful. However, the putty knife under the front corners to release a spring clip was not accurate to release the console. Our Roper had two philips head screws on each corner of the back of the console that had to be removed to allow the console to slide back and off its clips. Then the housing of the machine (sides and front) was not coming off as described. However, after measuring I determined that the water pump had enough clearance to be removed without the housing of the machine being removed. So, the repair was even simpler than described.

I watched the instructional video on how to take apart and how to take washer a part and how to install the direct drive water pump. It was very easy to do. also the delivery was very fast. I will be using the site to fix other appiances that I have that is sitting around broken. Thanks for your speedy service and customer service.

First time .Replace the clutch .miss placed one of the retainer clip .found it after the replacement came .It was in the fold at the base of the machine.

I followed the you tube instructions. The hardest part was realigning the washer housing on the lower frame.

My friend unplugged washer turned off water to it, tilted machine back took off old, put on new. It took him about 5 minutes. Washer is working fine now, no more water leaks!

Luckily this washer was in the garage and was being made ready to replace an old broken washer. Being able to lay the washer on its side made the job much easier than if it was upright in the laundry closet.

Removal of the old pump was simply a matter of releasing the two clamps holding the input and output hoses and removing the two spring clips holding the pump in place on the motor shaft.

The new pump install required a reversal of the above and took about 3 minutes. It was a very easy and successful repair.