MTW6700TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.

Replaced rods with new set of 4

It was not easy but I dit my sell

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

To start out, I ordered two parts for a washer, a water valve and a recirculation pump. I found out that one of the solenoid switches went bad on the valve body. I tried to find just this switch but found out that you have to buy the whole valve assembly just to get one of the switches. The recirculation pump was making a really bad noise when it would run. The problem with the pump, the impeller that pushes the water out of the pump was in pieces in the pump head housing. I paid to rush the delivery so the washer was not unusable for every long. The parts showed up as planned with one problem. One of the solenoid switches was not attached to the valve body, it was broken off of the valve body. I called the service number that was on the packing slip. The lady I spoke with about the broken part apologized and quickly placed another order with the same part. Down side was she could not get it sent out that day because it was late afternoon on a Friday and the shipping department was closed. So the earliest I would receive the part would be the following Tuesday. She did refund my rush delivery cost, so i paid for just standard delivery. I had the recirculation pump on the Friday I was hoping for but still could not get the washer running until I received the water valve the following Tuesday. I told the lady I understand her hands are tied about shipping the part out that day, Since there was nobody there to ship it. I also understand that sometimes things do get broke in transit. The part was delivered on the following Tuesday as promised. I opened up the package to inspect it. This time the part inside the package was packed a little different and a little more secure. I was glad the service department was easy to deal with, very respectful and willing to correct the problem. All and All The repair went really well, had no problems installing the parts what so ever. (To make things a little easier to remember where they go)Leave the old wire harness intact with the old water valve when you remove it. Once the new water valve is install you can reference how to install the new wire harness from the old water valve. The pump had 3 screws and 2 hose clamps to remove it. It is easier if you can tilt the washer forward (just a little) to change out the pump. You can change out the pump without tilting the washer, just easier if tilted. I would order from partSelect again. I would recommend my friends and family to order from partSelect.

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

Our washer wasn't really working, we called a tech to diagnose our problem, he charged us $35 to let us know that we had a suspension problem, he promised to call us back next day with the estimate for the repair, he never did. So I decide to search, I found a video showing exactly how to do it, it was a very easy, and simple process that I decide to order the parts my self. The parts were delivered to my door in 24hrs. I installed the parts in less than 45 min, and now our washer is working like new again!!!

Thanks guys.

I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

1. Removed tub to ensure nothing caught to stop rotating. 2. Removed rotor and noted stator had fracture across center from coil to coil. 3. Changed stator, RPS and harness. 4. tested and received F 50 code (no rotation sensed by RPS.5. Changed RPS control board-washer works fine. Hope this repair acts as having a new washer again.

put machine on side pushed old rods out to top installed new ones. runs like new. tried to ask mechanics or stores nobody would help with info, they all want to send mechanics with 80$ just to get here. it was easy to do. thanks

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.