MTW6700TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

lifted top using putty knife to push back holding clips.secured top so it did not fall. moved basket to one corner and lifted the spring up, while it was lifted remove the plastic holding rings. Then push down on holding clips that are near bottom of side of basket and the suspension rod just eases out. do that for all 4 and you are done.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

fairly simple remove and put back in …I watched a video of a similar Maytag pump replace got some tips…the electoral connection is shielded by a pull up tab…so it was quite simple I got extra hose clamps in case?…didn’t need them

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

We ordered the outer tub & bearing and now the washer works like it was brand new.

we ordered a motor controller,pop out the old one,then replaced it with the one we ordered,and bingo,problem is solved

Our washer wasn't really working, we called a tech to diagnose our problem, he charged us $35 to let us know that we had a suspension problem, he promised to call us back next day with the estimate for the repair, he never did. So I decide to search, I found a video showing exactly how to do it, it was a very easy, and simple process that I decide to order the parts my self. The parts were delivered to my door in 24hrs. I installed the parts in less than 45 min, and now our washer is working like new again!!!

Thanks guys.

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.

First unplug electrical, disconnect all hoses. If there is a large volume of water left in the machine you need to get it out.Pull machine out so you will have room to work. Lay machine front face down. Remove drive belt, inspection cover.Take the hose clamps back up the hose,remove hoses from pump. Remove the three screws that hold the pump in place.Replace pump, take steps back as you removed the pump to restore machine to operation.Total time 45 min. I am old and slow.

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.