WT1501CW LG Washer - Instructions

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

Description provided on website was that repair was similar to another washing machine where you press in on spring clips to release top of machine to access hinge. Not correct at all.

There are two screws on top of machine that are covered by caps. Remove caps and then remove screws. Lift up / prop up machine top and you have easier access to 2 screws that hold plastic hinge in place. Remove screws and replace hinge and replace screws. Took me longer to figure out I had incorrect directions than it did to replace hinge.

Tried everything and could not get it out I just use mesh bags for washing at this time, but LG washing machine is the worst I have ever had

I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, select, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.

The old dispenser is removed by slightly raising the front as you pull it out of the housing slot. To install the new dispenser, keep the front slightly tilted up and insert the new dispenser into the housing alot

Very simple repair after watching YouTube video on how to complete repair.

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

Tried to remove adjitator but it was stuck. Could not find any professional method of pulling it. There must be some type of puller,

On repair of (replacing one of the MEF62462103 hinges) the previous comments and instructions were good and fairly accurate. However, in addition to having to remove the two screws on the top front so the entire top assemble can be lifted, there are two short screws on the back of the washer towards the top on each side that need to be removed. That way you can tilt the entire top up enough to get to the two underneath phillips head screws for each hinge. It’s okay to leave all the hoses connected and good to have a second person hold the top tilted up so you can get to the hinge screws. It took about 30 minutes to change one hinge for me and my helper.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

Removed 2 hidden screws from the top panel.
Lifted top panel.
The first screw came out easy, the second one gave me trouble.
It is best to help a helper who can hold the lid open as much as possible.
To insert the new screws takes patience as they might fall very easily.
Overall, not that difficult - just need patience.

Since the old pulsator had actually come off during a wash cycle, I was able to place the new one on easily. Tightened the screw with a socket. Then placed the new cap on. Before placing the new pulsator on, I was able to clean all the mold and hard deposits off the mechanism under the pulsator. The hard deposits were also scrapped from the pulsator holding (where the screw goes) which may have caused the problem to begin with.

Remove cover over associated hinge pin assembly and the hinge assembly behind it. With the lid open, remove 4 screws holding on the top assembly, lift and rotate it on its wire cable side and rest it on the machine top frame (it may be necessary to remove the 2 cable restrainers to gain enough play to do this - you will have to remove the large rear cover to accomplish this and be able to reinstall these restrainers). Remove 2 screws fastening the broken hinge pin receptor, install new unit, and fasten with these 2 screws. Install top assembly and a new/repaired hinge pin assembly (most likely the reason for the broken hinge pin receptor).. Replace cable restrainers and rear cover if it was necessary to remove them. Note: These hinge pin assemblies are sold as a set (1 left, 1 right; they are not interchangeable and are expensive). Time to do repair = about 30 minutes.