40262 LG Washer - Instructions

Basic skill

removed dryer which was stacked on top of dryer. opened washer top by removing screws from plastic hold down parts on rear. replaced valves with new valves you all sent me. reassembled and restacked dryer on washer

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

found a slow leak in one of the valve seat gaskets and decided to replace the entire valve (also did the hot inlet as well just in case). Unplugged unit, detached water hoses (replaced these as well), moved the washer out about 12" from the wall. With Phillips head removed the washer top. With pliers removed the hose clamps off the valve heading to the detergent dispenser (be sure to keep track of what hose goes to what nipple). Detached electric clip from each solenoid. Using Phillips head removed the valve. Use reverse order to install new valve. Ran the unit through a long cycle with the top off to ensure there were no leaks.

Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.

remove the front part of the machine to get to the door hinge.

The most difficult part was moving both the dryer and washer from the laundry room, into the garage. Be sure to unplug and turn off both hot and cold water, gas, and disconnect gas from the dryer before disconnecting hoses and dryer vent. I walked them out with the help of my sweet little wife. I got on utube to find a film on disassembly of the wm2277hs. This is vital because it comes apart like a chinese puzzle box. With the top panel removed, I hooked the garden hose up to the cold side and found the middle solenoid was leaking on the inlet valve. I decided to replace both hot and cold inlet valves along with the four hoses. The hoses had little cracks in them. It cost more but I expect it will save hassle down the road. After replacing the parts, I tested it all with the garden hose, then put it back in the laundry room. Final testing included looking for leaks and dish soap on the gas connection looking for a bubble. Suggest you pay for faster shipping. My stuff came in three separate shipments and took a week. It was about $85 bucks. Good luck.

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

greate very easy and the parts fit awsome the shiping was fast and easy very satified

Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is common for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.

My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.