40262 LG Washer - Instructions

Did some research and found this video on YouTube. I would not have attempted the repair without out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Followed the video instructions provided.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

removed two screws from back of front load washer slid the top back two inches and pulled up removing the top.Turned the water off at the shut off . Used the pliers to remove the clamps on the hose to replace. Put the new hose on with new clamps. Un screwed the two screws holding the inlet valve and removed the hose and clamp. Put the new part in and put the hose and clamp back on then put the two screws back that hold the inlet valve.Total time to unpack the parts and install 7 minutes. All I did was google it on youtube and order the parts from this site which only took 2 days and tah dah .

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

found a slow leak in one of the valve seat gaskets and decided to replace the entire valve (also did the hot inlet as well just in case). Unplugged unit, detached water hoses (replaced these as well), moved the washer out about 12" from the wall. With Phillips head removed the washer top. With pliers removed the hose clamps off the valve heading to the detergent dispenser (be sure to keep track of what hose goes to what nipple). Detached electric clip from each solenoid. Using Phillips head removed the valve. Use reverse order to install new valve. Ran the unit through a long cycle with the top off to ensure there were no leaks.

the best video was on you tube and showed exactly how to repair my washer. the parts arrived quickly and was a perfect match. thanks for helping me save some moola and making mama happy.

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

removed dryer which was stacked on top of dryer. opened washer top by removing screws from plastic hold down parts on rear. replaced valves with new valves you all sent me. reassembled and restacked dryer on washer

I took the back panel off the washer and located where the leak was coming from. It was obviously coming from around where the cold water hose connects. Checked washers in hoses and they were good. Noticed a small drip on the valve assembly that the hose connects too. Took off small panel where the hose connections are mounted....disconnected all 3 black water hoses that connect to it (squeeze metal clamps with pliers and slide hoses off. and numbered them with permanent marker so I wouldn't get my lines crossed later), removed the quick disconnect electrical lines.... removed part and googled the parts diagram on this site.....identified the part in the pic and ordered....it was here in less than 48 hrs with the basic shipping (which stated 3-5 days:)....reassembled the same way I took it apart. I'm prud of myself, it was pretty easy and I'm sure it saved me a lot of money!:)l

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.