11027112601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First ,no need to move washer.
Remove 2 screws on bottom front of control panel.
Lift panel up.
Disconnect switch plug from top of cabinet.
Remove 2 gold colored clips under panel by
prying up with 2 screwdrivers.One flathead on
front of clip the other under the center of clip.
Now you can tilt the whole cabinet forward.
Place cabinet on floor.
Remove plug connector,remove top screw to remove retaining clips X 2.
Remove 3 screws holding lid switch and ground
wire.I had to redrill groundwire hole because the
hole stripped.(No biggie if you have a drill.)
By this time you should know how to replace the
switch and cabinet.
Make sure bottom lip of cabinet is under the frame when tilting back up.
Give yourself a high-five.

I removed the two screws in the lower left and right corners of the control assembly. You then lift the assembly about an inch or two and then tilt it back. Then there are two clips shaped kind of like an S (mine were gold) connecting the back of the washer to the top of the washer. I removed these clips by prying them off with a screwdriver. Be careful, they can shoot out. Then I unhooked the electrical connector which dives into the top (its the only one). You just hold the two clips in and pull it out. Then the entire front panel and top can be pulled away. I pulled it away and then layed it flat on the ground so the front of the washer is laying on the ground and the back of the top is pointing towards the ceiling. Then I used a landry basket to prop the lit open while I went to work. First you remove two screws holding the old lid switch to the top. Then you remove the screw holding the ground wire. Then the whole lid switch assembly comes out and you pry it out from under some clips that wrap it around the bottom of the top. When you remove it, pay attention to which side of the electrical clip (the end of the assemply) faces towards you so you can put the new switch back in the correct position. Then I screwed the new assembly into the top with the two screws. Connected the green ground wire. Fenangled the tupes that protect the wire so that they could fit under the clips, and pushed the electrical connection end of the assembly through the top. Then you put the top and front back where it was, put the clips back (you clean some parts here that probably have not been cleaned in years) and fold the control assembly back down and put the two screws back in the corners. End of story and you just saved $150 bucks on some service technician who would have come see you (after telling you he or she would be there between 12 and 4) then would leave because he needs a part, then you wait two weeks, then he comes back (again between 12 and 4).

Replaced the lid assembly and it is working great.

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Unscrewed two screws at rear of console/controls, flipped up the console on the hinges, unplugged the Molex connector to the console, released the locking clips, pulled the outer shell of the washer forward enough to expose the lid switch, unscrewed it and pulled it out of the retaining clips, then reversed to put everything back together.

I'm in computers and IT, so washing machine repair is a bit out of my general area of expertise. That said, the lid switch is a pretty easy repair and for the cost of a $20 part and a half hour of my time I no longer need to buy a $500 washing machine.

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

This model is a compact / apartment size washer and the repair was fairly easy. The lid is held on by 2 spring clips on the front and 2 tabs on the rear. I used a screwdriver to pop the top off the clips, removed the screws on the tabs, unplugged the switch and set the top aside. Took out 2 screws (all screws are 5/16" hex head) on the left side panel (facing the front of the machine) and set it to the side. The pump is clearly visible at this point. Tipped the washer and propped it up for easier access. Removed the 2 hose clamps (set a pan underneath first) and the pump is held in place by 2 spring clips. Popped those off and the pump came right out. Put the new pump in, snapped the spring clips on, put the hose clamps back in place, the side panel and the lid. Not at all hard to do. About 30 to 45 minutes and I was doing laundry again.

Lifted the control panel bake and pulled the tub frame forward. I was then able to unattach the lid switch screws at the lid and unconect the plug from the control panel. The new one wnts inf perfectly and the machine is up and running. It takes alittle patience to look and understand how it comes apart but once you see that, the rest is easy. Thanks for the part, Isaved a lot of money!

Un-screwed the control panel and lift it up. Release hinges holding the cabinet base of the washer. Un-plugged the wiring harness - unscrewed the old switch, put on the new, put the washer cabinet base back on and attached the control panel.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

Make sure you UNPLUG your washer first. It is also a good idea to remove the water intake hoses from the back to avoid damage to them or the valves.

Getting the outer panels off was the hardest part for me. There are 2 screws on the back of the function panel. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just until they are unscrewed from the bottom base. Then I gently pulled forward and up on the function panel and it flips back exposing the wiring. There is one wire harness plug that needs to be disconnected toward the center of the panel.
There are 2 large metal clips that are removed by pressing a flat head screwdriver into them. Press down and slightly toward the front of the washer and it will release the clip. Be careful, mine popped up and flew behind the washer.
Once the clips are removed you can pull the entire caging of the washer (top, front, right and left side panels as one) away from the machine. This will expose the entire innards of the washer.
In the front at the bottom is the water pump. It is very easily removed. Pinch the clamps around the hoses with a pair of pliers and move them up the hoses. Pull both hoses off the pump.
There are 2 metal clamps holding the pump in place. You can release them using a flat head screwdriver as well. Once free from clamps, the pump can be pulled straight forward to be removed.
Replace the pump with the new one, placing it in the same place and position as the old one. Attach the clamps back on. Mine were really hard to reattach as the tension was really tight.
Then slide the hoses back on and use the pliers to squeeze and slide the clamps back down the hoses to secure them to the pump.
Replace the cage of the machine. On my particular model, the front panel hooks under a metal lip and the side panels rest on them, so it was a challenge getting it back into place by myself in the small area I was working in.
Replace the metal clips on the top using the flat head screwdriver by pulling slightly toward the front of the washer and pressing down.
It was a little scary, I thought I was going to pinch myself.
Then reattach the one wire harness, flip the console back down and secure tightly.
Screw the 2 screws back in on the back of the function panel and your done. Reattach the hoses and plug in your washer.

This was my first washer repair. I did it with some sketchy online instructions for a different model washer. It took forever to get the washer open and was even more frustrating to put it back together. Changing out the pump was simple once I got in there. I saved over $100 in labor by doing this myself and in only took about 45 minutes.
I think I'm ready to open up the dryer and give it a good cleaning.

I didn't do it but a friend of mine did. He removed the screws in the back of the machine and lift that back panel up. and from their he was able to do what needed to be done.

UNPLG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICAL OUTLET:

Open the top lid and remove the two screws that attaches the cut off switch to the top of the washing machine. Remove the screw on each end of the control panel, (they are angled down and are quite long). Now lift the control panel back over the top of itself. The plug for the cut off switch comes up from below in front of the control panel (very easy to see) and unplug it from the plug going to the control panel. I believe you have to squeeze the sides of one of the plugs to disconnect them. Once disconnected they pull apart. .

Remove the two clamps (if you are like me and can’t remember how things come off take a digital picture before removing the clamps) that attach the washer top to the back panel of the washing machine. Use a screwdriver and insert in the end of the clamp facing you of the clamp and pry the clamp upward, repeat with the other clamp.

The body of the washing machine will now easily tilt back, away from the control panel. I suggest you put something about a foot high down in the front to let the body rest on while performing the rest of the replacement. Helps keep it in place when you tilt it back up to reattach the clamps.

Take a nut driver and remove the ground wire from the body of the washer panel. There are two clamps that secure the cut off switch wire and the plastic covering to the top of the body. These clamps can be pried open to remove the wiring. No need to remove the clamps. The new switch is now ready to be installed. In the reverse sequence of removal

Replace the two screws to secure the switch to the top of the machine. Tighten them down until flush and tight. Tightly reattach the ground wire in the same hole you removed it from. Insert the wiring and plastic covering back into the clamps that you secured the old wiring and wiring cover.

Now tilt the body of the machine upward and make sure it lines up so you can align the clamps properly to the rear panel of the machine. The body will be wobbly feeling until the clamps are reseated. Insert the clamp in the rear panel first and then pull them down and forcibly insert it in the proper holes in the washer body. Repeat for the second clamp. Check to make sure everything feels tight and no longer wobbly. Tilt the control panel back down and reattach the two original screws. Remember they angle down and are quite long. It may take a couple of times to make sure they are lined up with the holes thay came out of.

Plug the machine back up. Turn the control knob to spin and close the lid. If the tub spins and then stops when the lid is raised everything is working


Hope this helps, I went into quite a bit of detail because it can appear to require a lot of knowledge for someone without mechanical experience. If you follow the instructtions you will do fine. There are also other very good instruction on here. If some of my instructions seem confusing check another poster and see if maybe they were able to explain it with less confusing language.

Bill P
Louisiana