11027112601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

I removed the two screws in the lower left and right corners of the control assembly. You then lift the assembly about an inch or two and then tilt it back. Then there are two clips shaped kind of like an S (mine were gold) connecting the back of the washer to the top of the washer. I removed these clips by prying them off with a screwdriver. Be careful, they can shoot out. Then I unhooked the electrical connector which dives into the top (its the only one). You just hold the two clips in and pull it out. Then the entire front panel and top can be pulled away. I pulled it away and then layed it flat on the ground so the front of the washer is laying on the ground and the back of the top is pointing towards the ceiling. Then I used a landry basket to prop the lit open while I went to work. First you remove two screws holding the old lid switch to the top. Then you remove the screw holding the ground wire. Then the whole lid switch assembly comes out and you pry it out from under some clips that wrap it around the bottom of the top. When you remove it, pay attention to which side of the electrical clip (the end of the assemply) faces towards you so you can put the new switch back in the correct position. Then I screwed the new assembly into the top with the two screws. Connected the green ground wire. Fenangled the tupes that protect the wire so that they could fit under the clips, and pushed the electrical connection end of the assembly through the top. Then you put the top and front back where it was, put the clips back (you clean some parts here that probably have not been cleaned in years) and fold the control assembly back down and put the two screws back in the corners. End of story and you just saved $150 bucks on some service technician who would have come see you (after telling you he or she would be there between 12 and 4) then would leave because he needs a part, then you wait two weeks, then he comes back (again between 12 and 4).

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

First ,no need to move washer.
Remove 2 screws on bottom front of control panel.
Lift panel up.
Disconnect switch plug from top of cabinet.
Remove 2 gold colored clips under panel by
prying up with 2 screwdrivers.One flathead on
front of clip the other under the center of clip.
Now you can tilt the whole cabinet forward.
Place cabinet on floor.
Remove plug connector,remove top screw to remove retaining clips X 2.
Remove 3 screws holding lid switch and ground
wire.I had to redrill groundwire hole because the
hole stripped.(No biggie if you have a drill.)
By this time you should know how to replace the
switch and cabinet.
Make sure bottom lip of cabinet is under the frame when tilting back up.
Give yourself a high-five.

Replaced the lid assembly and it is working great.

Unplug the power. Unscrewed 2 screws on the backside of the console to removed the cabinet. Removed the 2 clips that releases the back panel from the cabinet. Disconnect the harness. Instead of removing the cabinet i just moved the washer drum around. Was plenty of room to work with. Next I removed the 2 screws that secured the lid switch to the cabinet. Moved the drum to use a wrench to unscrew the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Moved the drum to the back and used my fingers to find the clips holding the wire to the cabinet. Re-installed the new lid switch.

Removed broken hose and replaced with new hose. My washer will be 21 years old in January.

Inserted new drain hose thru back and snapped into place. Tipped washing machine back, clamped new hose with pliers.

Just changed out the old pump with the new one. It went very quick and smooth!

1. Need mop, bucket to catch leftover water in machine before you remove old hose. 2. Removed old hose by removing clamp. 3. Dried up any remaining water around fixture before attaching new hose. 4. Slide clamp to bottom of hose before attaching to machine. 5. Attached hose and clamp to machine where old hose was removed from. Make sure clamp is secure. (Please note that clamp that came with the new hose was too big. I used the old one. Worked perfectly). 6. Finally run a little water in you washer, then run out to test tightness and there is no leaks.

Removed washer shell by instruction via video, then easily installed break hose and clamped it back on to water line and water dispenser. Works like a charm! No more leak

Very easy replacement. The new hose was more like a formed radiator hose and fit exactly.
Removed two screws at rear of control panel and separated the rear cabinet panel from the front cabinet enough to get to the water valve. I then disconnected the break hose from the valve by compressing the spring clamp. I then disconnected the other end from the washer water inlet by also releasing another spring clamp.
The new hose was installed using the same clamps. The cabinet was reassembled and washer tested for leaks.

First I removed the old hose to ensure I ordered the correct part. When I got home from work the part had arrived by us mail. I opened the box and installed it without any modifications and within 5 mins. I hooked up the washing machine to the hot and cold water, then the drain hose. I was washing cloths within 20 mins of opening the box!

It was a miracle. We were going to get rid of the washing machine because it made so much noise and rattled the whole house. It also 'walked' across the room with every load.
I simply replaced the wear pads (2 of them were already worn away), and now it is as quiet as when it was new. AMAZING!

Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.