11022992103 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss.
1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor.
2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve".
3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install.
4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft.
5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner.
6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place.
7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough.
8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place.
9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!

I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism.
Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

Too simple. The old one practicaly fell off and all I had to do was push the new one into place. It locked itself in and was ready to use.

No more rattling or noise when it runs now.

First I screamed at the ceiling, because I have a three year old and an infant, and the washing machine was dead. Then I went to youtube. It seemed like the "agitator dogs" were the issue.

In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.

Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.

Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.

Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.

But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops.

I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.

Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

I loosened two screws which held the knob panel in place. I undid the two clips holding the cabinet and removed it. The pump has two clips holding it on, I removed those and the pump came free. Taking advice from these forums, I did not remove the hoses attached. I disconnected the wiring harnesses from the motor. The motor has 2 clips also, these being held on with screws. I removed the screws and the clips. THE MOTOR IS HEAVY.
You will see the coupling on the "spindle" of the motor. In my case, both plastic pieces were cracked in 2 places. I removed the old coupling and cleaned the "spindles" and lightly regreased.
The replacement pieces I ordered were the "improved" ones with the metal insert. They were a tight fit on the motor but I used a socket and hammer. (lightly). Line up the coupling pieces, reattach clips, DONT FORGET THOSE SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR CLIPS. Pump goes on next, etc. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING IS RECONNECTED! Cabinet goes back on, large clips holding cabinet to rear of machine go back on. Knob console flipped down and reattached.
Plugged it in and I was good to go! This washer is almost ten years old and this is the second time I have been able to bring it back from the dead, the first time being the agitator "dogs" wearing out. THANKS PARTSELECT!

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.

I had given up on repairing the machine and placed order for a $650 washer. After returning to home from this shoping, I wanted to know possible problems with the current machine and came across a story on your web site attached to the Coupling parts description. It described the repair details. Encouraged I placed order for this $15 parts and repaired in an hour, saved the replacement machine cost. Thanks a lot

Started taking machine apart, would of been easier if I had looked at the online diagrams first, but dismantled enough to find a few broken parts, I could not tell the coupling was broke till I actually removed the water pump and motor. Total cost for 3 plastic parts was less than $25 including shipping. Received parts in 3 days on standard lowest cost shipping. Put machine back together, with just a few extra screws and wire clips, but machine works like new now. Much better than the cost of new or used washer.