11022992103 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

After moving washer and UN-Plugging electrical. 1. Remove the 2 screws that hold the Control Panel to the lower chassis. 2. Lift the Control Panel up and forward to expose the water level switch. 3. Remove the dial. 4. Remove the old switch, (a plastic tab locks it into the panel, try to release it(from the front) with a small screwdriver, (mine broke off, releasing the switch). 5. Remove the electrical connection by lifting the connection locking tab. 6. Remove the air tube. 7. BLOW into the air tube to ensure it is not blocked. 8 . Reconnect the air tube and electrical connection. 9. Carefully install the new switch into place, turning it to line up and lock the tab into the panel. 10. Re-install the dial and return the Control Panel screws into the lower chassis. NOTE: If the included air hose needs to be replaced, the time and difficulty needed to make repairs will increase.

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.

I could not make the repair. If you get the pump specified on the shaft that drives the pump, the pump will be broken. I tried to call, nobody answers the phone. I ended up buying a Washing Machine and I'm stuck with a pump I cannot use.

Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.

After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.

Unplug washer. Place large old towel in floor at rear of washer. Turn off and disconnect water supply lines and allow to drip dry. Place towel in floor in front of washer. Tip washer forward onto face of washer. Unplug wiring clip connector from drive motor. Remove 2 1/4 inch head screws from spring clips on bottom of motor housing. Slowly rotate clips out of the was to drop motor. Knoch top coupling piece off agitator shaft with screwdriver and light hammer. replace coupling with 5/8 deep well socket as a driver which will fit the metal insert in the coupling and not interfere with the shaft. then drive the other coupling onto the motor shaft using light hammer and drive socket(5/8) deep well. place the rubber shock connector onto the agitator drive piece then slide the motor back into the mount position. rotate the clips vback into place. tighten 1/4 head screws in clips re-attach the wiring harness tip the washer back up onto "feet" re-attach water supply lines tighten appropriately. Plug unit into receptacle and enjoy....

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

snapped off the 2 springs on the water pump,took off hoses with pliers,took off the 2 little screws on the motor springs.snapped off the 2 springs on the motor,and the motor came off.took out the drive coupling,it just slides off...then reverse the procedure,and you are done...

There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.