1108293130 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

1) Unplugged machine
2) Removed two screws that held the control panel in place
3) Disengaged the lid switch form the control panel
4) Removed the washing machine cabinet
5) Removed old lid switch and replaced it with new lid switch
6) Put everything back together.
This probably would have taken the repair man about 15 minutes, but it took me much longer because I had never done this before and had to follow the instructions step by step. My washer was bought in 1993 so it was 16 years old at the time of the repair.

Shut off both water valves and used a cup to catch water from hoses. Removed top control panel that's held on with 2 phillips screws. Remove top screws on the back to gain access. Was able to access the valve by pulling slightly out on the top corner.

Removed agitator cover with small screwdriver. Removed bolt holding agitator with socket on 6" extender. Pulled agitator up and out. Replaced thrust spacer adding tiny amount of silicone grease. Replaced agitator directional cogs adding small amount of silicone grease. Note direction of cogs first or they will make a loud ratcheting noise. Reassemble. The drawing on this site is helpful.

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

I followed the steps on the following youtube video: It worked very well and the problem is solved.

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

After seeing information on the lid switch being one of the main causes, I manually wiggled the switch up and down to find a spot it would start to spin. 1. Remove two screws on the control panel 2. Flip Control panel back 3. Remove two clips under control panel 4. Unplug lid switch 5. Tilt Washing machine shell forward and unlatch the front bottom edge from the frame 6. Remove ground wire screw with 7 MM socket and remove to screws holding switch on shell with Phillips screwdriver 7. Remove wire harness from clips 8. Attach new wire harness to clips 9. Insert screws to hold switch to shell with phillips screwdriver and attach ground wire with 7 MM socket 10. Latch front bottom edge of shell onto frame and tilt back, making sure back bottom corners go onto pins on bottom 11. Reinstall two clips 12. Flip control panel back up and install two screws Took about 15 - 20 minutes to complete, may have taken longer to remove the switch from package than to change.

Washer was not agitating. My husband did not have a clue what to look for, but he took it apart and noticed two of the four directional cogs were stripped. Did an internet search and found the part on your website and thought we would give it a try since the part/shipping was under $20. The parts came in three days and my washer lives on. Was ready to get a new one since it is 18 years old, but I will not wait. Excellent website with all instructions and parts breakdown of the washer.

Placed the new dispenser in since the broken one had popped off.

1. Need mop, bucket to catch leftover water in machine before you remove old hose. 2. Removed old hose by removing clamp. 3. Dried up any remaining water around fixture before attaching new hose. 4. Slide clamp to bottom of hose before attaching to machine. 5. Attached hose and clamp to machine where old hose was removed from. Make sure clamp is secure. (Please note that clamp that came with the new hose was too big. I used the old one. Worked perfectly). 6. Finally run a little water in you washer, then run out to test tightness and there is no leaks.

Removed broken hose and replaced with new hose. My washer will be 21 years old in January.

Removed Softner dispenser and cap. With a 3/8" socket wrench and extension And 7/16" socket I took out the screw holding the agitator and removed top section of agitator. Turned upside down and removed the rubber grommet that holds the cogs in place. Replaced cogs and reinstalled grommet. Aligned top part of agitator with 2 tabs and put back in place and secured with 7/16" screw. Replaced cap And dispenser. Good to go. Works perfectly. Very easy repair.

Simply screwed the New Knob on existing threaded screw.