1108293130 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!

This website was such a big help. I just followed the directions of the other prople who answered. I was able to do this even though I am not that mechanically inclined. The toughest part was removing the two metal clips that hold the back to the top. I needed a screwdriver to lift these out, but after this the repair was a simple matter of following the old switch line along the inside top of the washer body, removing the ground wire (a bit tricky because you have to lean the unit foward while trying to remove a screw that hangs down at the same time). and screwing in the new unit. Thanks to everyone who posted comments before. You were real life savers (and saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs or replacement fees!!!!!!!). Thanks again!

Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.

Watch the video

pried out old actuater with screwdriver and pushed in new one

I looked up the part description on PartSelect. I did not find a match by Kenmore model number (I guess it is really old), so I searched by type of part (knob) and other parameters such as size. There were still a couple of hundred hits, but the very first page had the most relevant match, and the excellent graphics made it easy to see the part I wanted. I was a bit concerned that the original part was white plastic, whereas the replacement was black metal, but I went ahead and ordered anyway. I was a bit put off by the prce i.e. a simple knob costing $20+ is a bit of a rip off, but unfortunately, there is no alternative to find an exact replacement part (the alternative is to buy a new washer for $1000+).

Once I ordered, everything went very smoothly. The part arrived very prompty (I ordered on a Sat, and part arrived on Wed) and it took less than 5 minutes to unpack it and twist it on the washer. And now it works great! I am glad it is metal so won't break off (even though aesthetically, it is not as pretty, being black on a white washer).

Overall, excellent experience at PartSelect. They have a great selection of parts, detailed descriptions/graphics/reviews and excellent service.

I unscrewed the broken plastic piece that was there and replaced it with the new part. Just turned it clockwise with my hand until it stopped.
The counterpart of the new knob is now metal (yeah!!) so perhaps I will not ever need to replace this knob again on my 21 year old Kenmore clothes washing machine.

Had to remove cabinet to get to lid switch to replace. The most time consuming part was removing and replacing the cabinet. The rest was easy.

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

I read other peoples repair advice and did what they suggested.I suggest after taking screws out of control panel and exposing metal clips that connect back panel to cabinet,to remove clips and slide cabinet into an open space ,(utility room, kitchen ,or what ever may be the case)and then you will have room to install lid switch. after switchassembly is installed return cabinet to frame and slide back into place and re-install clips to back panel. then reinstall control panel and you should be ready to go.

I ordered the dispenser and it arrived within 24 hours. Amazing. It simply snaps onto the top of the agitator. Push the blue lock ring down to lock it in place and you are done. It works perfectly.1

First thing I did was remove the 2 phillip head screws from the lid switch control inside under the lid, then I removed 2 phillip head screws on the control panel, one the bottom far right corner of the controls and one on the far left corner. After removing the screws I removed the 2 other Phillips head screws from the back that held the remaining of the switch control panel. These also hold 2 small white hinges of some sort. After removing the switch controls by wiggling it a bit (which its good to do very gently since there are still wires attach inside). After I moved the switch on top of the lid I detach/ unplugged a plug that was connected to the metal which gives the power that goes to the lid switch. After removing the lid plug the first half of the plug remains on the top the bottom half is the one you have to press down to remove it. After the bottom half is press down and out of that space there are too metal clips on the corner of the each side of the washing machine with the same screw driver I unclipped it by putting it under the metal clip and lift it out, same goes for the other side. Once these are removed the metal casing can be moved towards you so you can have access under the lid, make sure you tape the lid so it does wack you in the head or have some one hold it for you. Once you have access to it, you can remove the the remaing wire attached, if it seems stuck it means you have metal clips holding the plastic down you can unclip them pushing them out towards you. Once removed final step is to remove the screw that had the ground wire, also a phillips head screw, remove the old lid switch and replace with new one, make sure you first break the plastic apart as the old one was. Screw back the 2 screws that hold lid switch back one and then do the ground wire or which ever you find easier to do first. Then put everything back exactly how you took apart. I was able to do this in less that 15 min.