79628862700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Followed the video instructions provided.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Change the thermistor

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

removed two screws from back of front load washer slid the top back two inches and pulled up removing the top.Turned the water off at the shut off . Used the pliers to remove the clamps on the hose to replace. Put the new hose on with new clamps. Un screwed the two screws holding the inlet valve and removed the hose and clamp. Put the new part in and put the hose and clamp back on then put the two screws back that hold the inlet valve.Total time to unpack the parts and install 7 minutes. All I did was google it on youtube and order the parts from this site which only took 2 days and tah dah .

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Replaced the 4 valave unit and single hot water valve at same time. Unplug unit, remove two plastic tabs on back of washer, push on top from front to losen. tur off both water valves, remove two screws holding valves in place, mark with tape which hose goes to which vavle, < back left, back righ, front left, front right, and write in electrical plugs the same. Hot water vavle is by itself, mark it anyway>. install new vavles, replace hoses, and eletrical plugs on top. Make sure clamps are all the way forward and tight! > leave top off. turn on water and electrical, run one short cycle to check for operation and leaks, if ok, replace top and back screws. Simple job, saved me $375.00 doing it myself.

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

ordered part from Part Select and it was here very quickly,but the part came damaged (not the fault of Part Select). I ordered another one and PartSelect had it here the next day. I watched the video on how to replace it and it was very helpfull.The particular part I replaced (pump motor) does not seem very durable. I will buy an American made washer the next time I need one. I will use Partselect in the future and recomend it to others.

1) Shut off water supplies 2) Unplug 3) Disconnect water supplies from back of washer -some water will dribble out 4) Unscrew 2 screws at back of washer top plate (the lower of the two screws on each of the plastic bumpers) 5) slide top plate back a couple inches, then lift off. 6) Carefully stuff a towel underneath the distribution hoses and valves to catch any water that escapes during replacement. 7) Snap a photo of the entire area to help identify where the hoses and electrical connections are located to aid in re-connection (or label with tape). Be sure to note the color coding on the wires in relation to how they connect to the valves. 8) Pull the electrical connector(s) off the valve assembly 9) Use pliers to loosen and slide the hose clamps off as many of the hoses as possible and pull the hoses off the valve assembly. Some hoses are hard to reach, and can be removed after the valve is detached from the washer housing. 10) Unscrew the two screws from the back of the washer body holding the valve in place. 11) Remove the valve (and any remaining hoses). 12) Attach distribution hoses to new valve 13) Place new valve into washer body and screw into place. 14) Reattach electrical connection(s). 15) Remove towel and check for any stray water 16) Place top cover on washer and slide forward to lock in place. 17) Replace screws in top cover at rear of washer (unless you plan on checking for leaks after testing) 18) Reattach water supply hoses 19) Turn on water supplies 20) Plug washer in 21) Run washer self-test to check that all water inlets operate -see note at end 22) Check for leaks at water inlet hose connections and underneath washer OPTIONAL but ADVISABLE: check for internal leaks - 23) Unplug washer 24) Remove top cover 25) check for leaks at distribution hose connections 24) Replace top cover 25) Secure screws in top cover 26) Plug in washer NOTE: Washer self-test instructions: Turn washer off. Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously, then press POWER button. Keep holding SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons until buzzer sounds twice. Release buttons. Press START/PAUSE button 4 times to test prewash inlet and listen for sound of water entering the washer. Press START/PAUSE button again for main wash inlet, press again for hot inlet, press again for steam inlet, press again for bleach inlet. Press 4 more times to get to drain cycle and watch for water to drain from tub (if any visible). Press 3 more times to turn test off. Power off washer to reset.