79628862700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

Just like it shows on You tube but one of the shocks did not come with the plastic pegs so i used the old one. I need to order the springs now and replace them.

Replaced cold water inlet. Removed 4 water lines and 5 wires put new part in and reinstalled lines and wires

Found this part online. I just sets inside, did not click in like the bleach and fabric softener inserts. Think is ok, seems to work

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.

Took off the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new one on. As simple as that. You don’t need a repair man to get this done, you can do it yourself and save money too.

Watched the easy video instructions on the product page and did the same on our machine - pop off the top, unscrew the plate from the front of the door inset. Its a little challenging to unplug the old lock assembly because it is a tight fit and not enough room for two hands to fit to provide a bit more leverage when pulling the power lines out, but once its out it is easy to install the new one and reattach the strike plate frame and top of the washer. Plugged back in and we were back in business. This $50 part ended up saving us at least $300 in repair fees to get it working again.

Incredibly fast shipping - arrived in less than 2 days - which was really helpful as we were unable to use the washing machine until we were able to get this fixed. Excellent pricing as well. Couldn't be happier I found this site and the product I needed so easily.

Replaced it

To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.

Water would fill the basin when the washer wasn't used. I followed the video created by this site to make the repair. The video gave me the confidence that I could successfully make the repair myself. The hardest part was physically moving my washer out of its corner to make the repair. The parts were plug and play. Awesome!!

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

Did some research and found this video on YouTube. I would not have attempted the repair without out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.