VVSR1030H5WO Hotpoint Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Roger from ORO VALLEY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken straps
replaces as per video. Very helpful
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- Customer:
- Robert from Tucson, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WH12X10378
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Water overflowed tub and soaked the floor
1) Remove the load size dial by simply pulling it off gently. 2) To gain access to the switch, you must remove the "splash panel" where the dials are located. Do this by removing 3 hex screws from the back of the splash panel. **(If you need to move the washer, do so with the tub empty. This will make it easier to move and also lessen the chance of damaging the floor due to excess weight - water weighs 8 lbs per gallon - the average washer hold from 10-15 gallons on the largest load). 3) Once you have access to the rear of the panel, you will notice 3 hex-head screws holding the splash panel to part of the galvanized metal washer frame. Remove these screws and make sure you place them where you won't lose them. Slide the back splash section to the right a little and then lift the back splash away from the washer. 4) Remove the plastic tubing located on the brown/orange section of the switch. 5) Now, gently press the female connector from the switch by gently pushing it away from the area where the tubing was and pull at the same time. 6) To remove the switch from the back splash, turn the switch in a clock-wise direction (do this carefully so the delicate section of the back splash doesn't break.) 7) Inspect the tubing to see if it has expanded while being on the pressure switch - If so, use a very sharp knife (carefully) to cut off that old piece. 8) Take the new switch and install it by getting it in the correct position (you can tell because the metal frame of the switch has two ears that help you to align the switch correctly) Twist the switch in a anti-clockwise direction until it snaps in place. 9) This step can be skipped if the "snap in place" works and the switch is firmly seated. IF, at some time or other, the nubs that are used to hold the switch in place have been damaged, you will have to replace the back splash (Prt # PS2340063) and this costs more than the switch. 10) If you are here without reading step 9 - Congratulations! 11) Make sure you replace the electrical connector onto the new switch (it only fits one way so if at first you are having trouble, try turning the connector 180 degrees. Once all the parts you disconnected from the pressure switch are back in place properly, place the back splash back onto where it came from. Replace the 3 hex-screws that hold the back splash to the machine and before replacing the machine to where you pulled it out from, run a test to get the pressure switch "pressurized." My suggestion is to set the switch at the setting where the water only fills for a medium load. (This next part is not necessary but is eco-friendly) Set the other dial so you only are using COLD water. Start the water loading into the tub (DO NOT have any material in the tub or the switch will not be set properly) and watch the water level to make sure it shuts off at the correct level. If not, don't worry, Just shut the machine off and turn the dial to Spin to empty the water. Do this while the lid is closed so you can tell when all the water has been emptied; there will be an unmistakable change in the sound of the pump. Start the COLD cycle over again and watch the water level; it may shut off the flow if the pressure switch has been pressurized correctly. If not, repeat the procedure once more. Again, if it shuts off properly, you can now try a load of clothes (keep it at the medium setting). After the clothes have gone through the complete cycle, the pressure switch may have reset itself and the next load will seem to have less water. Simply set the water level to its highest level and you are now all set to wash all the towels you used to soak up the water from the overflow. ONE MORE THING - If the pressure switch doesn't fix the problem, you will need to replace the valve assembly.
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- Customer:
- Burley from WINTER PARK, FL
- Parts Used:
- WH41X10077
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Fill nozzle had a leak
Remove top of washer control panel to access filler. My hands are not large by t was difficult removing the old part and carefully trying not to drop mounting screws. Had to loosen screws twisting threads with pliers. No access for regular Phillips screwdriver. Patience is needed.
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- Customer:
- Olle J from Albert Lea, MN
- Parts Used:
- WH2X1197
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Noisy washer, especially while spinning.
Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.
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- Customer:
- robert from bradford, VT
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench set
Tub would shake and the whole machine was threatening to jump
As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.
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- Customer:
- Mahlon from Northville, NY
- Parts Used:
- WH45X10027
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Base hub had broken into several pieces.
The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.
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- Customer:
- Fred from Murphy, TX
- Parts Used:
- WH2X1197
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The machnica had recently developed a rumble during the spin cycle
The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Hollywood, FL
- Parts Used:
- WH02X10383
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
replaced leaky tubseal
Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from Miramar, FL
- Parts Used:
- WH41X22935
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
A lot of water was coming out underneath the equipment.
Steps:
1.- Open the front panel by pressing down (with a spatula) the 2 metal locks located between the front and top panels.
2.- Remove the drain hose located int the lower right and at the bottom using a set of pliers and a nutdriver.
3.-Install the new drain hose.
4.-Reinstall the front panel
The installation itself took me less tha 15 minutes.
Since I had opened the the front panel, I took rthe oportunity to air clean and dust off the equipment.
1.- Open the front panel by pressing down (with a spatula) the 2 metal locks located between the front and top panels.
2.- Remove the drain hose located int the lower right and at the bottom using a set of pliers and a nutdriver.
3.-Install the new drain hose.
4.-Reinstall the front panel
The installation itself took me less tha 15 minutes.
Since I had opened the the front panel, I took rthe oportunity to air clean and dust off the equipment.
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- Customer:
- andre from huntersville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WH41X22935
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
leaking hose
turned washer on it side took bottom off removed hose and replaced it with the new one. so very happy i tried it , works great like before. thanks for the easy to find diagram of parts.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Livingston, LA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
1 Broken tub dampening strap and 1 about to break
Removed the front panel (retainer clips), removed two screws holding the top panel and door, removed all 4 dampening straps and replaced them with the new straps, put the components back in reverse order of removal.
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- Customer:
- Walter from Reno, NV
- Parts Used:
- WH41X10096
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Leak under the washer
After noticing the leak, I moved the washer out to try to find the source. In the process, the Drain Hose Extension broke in two. As an emergency repair, I put the two halves together with duct tape. After running the washer again to try and find the leak, I discovered that it must have been the Drain Hose because now there was no leak. I then ordered a new one from PartSelect and replaced it with the repaired item.
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- Customer:
- peggy from sulligent, AL
- Parts Used:
- WH41X10096
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
busted drain hose
It was really easy to replace i removed the old one & sliped on the new one.
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- Customer:
- John from Fort Worth, TX
- Parts Used:
- WH41X10096
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Machine wouldn't fill, losing water out back
Determined the drain hose on the back of the machine was leaking, due to my dog chewing on the hose. Replaced the hose with the new one, locked the dog out of the garage where the machine is located, problem solved.
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- Customer:
- Jack from Hazard, KY
- Parts Used:
- WH41X22935
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Hose had developed a slit in the seam nearest to the tub and was pouring out the water flooding the basement where the washer is located.
Lay the drain pipe lower than the tub to remove any excess water in the tub and lines. Loosened clamp on the tub side with a screwdriver then removed hose from the tub. I used pliers to pinch clamp and remove hose from pump. To install hose put clamps on hose then mount to the pump and the tub then tighten clamps.
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