VISR309JTAAA Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

This was an inexpensive part with high probability of needing it, so I ordered it before beginning to take the washer machine apart based on "noisy" symptom. The fabric softener cup pulled straight up easily with no tool. Then, the agitator pulled straight up easily with no tool. The bolt was easy to get to with socket set and the coupler pulled up using 2 small pieces of wood as levers to pull it up evenly and straight. This didn't solve my noise problem, but was an easy and inexpensive fix to try. FYI...when I continued trying to troubleshoot, I took the belt off and the noise stopped, so I think the transmission is my problem. I tried for 2 days with WD-40, then with C-L-R to get the hub nut to move, and couldn't. I then tried to split the nut using a screwdriver and a hammer and it appears to be split in 2 places, but the nut still won't budge. I listed the washer on craigslist today too frustrated with the hub nut to continue the repair job. The cost of a repairman plus the transmission would have been over half of a new washer machine, and I still would have had a 8+ year-old motor, and I ran across a great deal on a scratch and dent model at Sears, so I am replacing the washer instead of repairing it.

The washer did not Agitate although it did spin. So the motor appeared to be good. I noticed that you could rotate the agitator by hand, that didn't seem right. So I pulled the Agitator off the coupler. Now the coupler can rotate by hand around the spline shaft. I removed the bolt holding the coupler to the spline shaft. The spline shaft looked good. Ordered the new couple and installed it in 10 minutes. I was fortunate that the bolt came off easy. I didn't need to use the motor to assist in getting the bolt free.

This model did not quite go as in the video on this site. The agitator just pulls up off the coupler. Removed the old, put on new, including new bolt that came with it, snapped the agitator back on, viola!

Removed center hub and agitator with a sharp tug upward ( no tool required) then using a 3/8 drive and 7/16 socket I removed the stripped coupling and replaced with new one. Total repair time was less then 15 min. 10 of then were spent search web page and watching DIY video clip.

This repair is as simple as it gets. Pull up on the agitator to reveal the Agitator Coupling. Remove the old coupling and reinstall the new one. In addition to this, I found the source of a majority of the mold smell inside the washer machine. There was a build up of detergent under the Agitator. A few scraps of a puddy knife, a shop vac, and the odor was gone. The only caution is to be careful pulling up on the agitator because you could potentially hit your self in the face because it will come off fast. Easy, Easy, Easy.

The agitator gets pulled up(no tools required).Under the agitator is the coupling which is held on by 1 bolt.I removed the bolt,took off the old coupling(the inside was stripped where the metal gear meets the plastic coupling).tThe new coupling slides right on.Replaced the bolt.Slid the agaitor back on the coupling.WORKS GREAT.5 MINUTE JOB.

Removed dual action agitator to reveal the coupling removed a single bolt and removed old part. Carefully alligned threads and slid new coupling on the shaft and tightened bolt. Put the dual action agitator back on then wa-lah problem fixed. Repair man told me 32 dollars for part plus labor. I fixed it for less than 14 dollars thanks to this site...

First I removed the dasher by placing rope around the fins of the dasher. Wrapped the rope around a 2 x 4 approximately the width of the washer. Standing on the washer I pulled up on the board and presto. Up came the dasher, removed the bolt out of the bell, removed the bell. New part came in the next day after the order was placed! Great service. To install the new bell, used the new bolt sent with the part. Centered and aligned the dasher on the bell. Pushed down and locked in place. Turned on washer and started filling with water. Washed clothes within 15 minutes from start to finish.

Husband took the machine apart. We found your website - put in the parts number...and up pops a picture! Very cool! We ordered and the machine was fixed within 4 days - easy smooth! I would highly recommend this site. The part shipped out the day we ordered the part!

I used the video instructions sent to my email and everything worked perfectly as instructed.

Remove agitator remove retainer screw and using Prybar lift off the old coupler ..... After removal use heat gun and wire brush to remove plastic residue from the splines of the motor shaft ... While the shaft is still warm line up the splines from the new coupler and using the mallet force the coupler on the shaft ... Install the retainer screw that comes with the coupler and snap on the agitator ... Done

The washing machine was a making a very loud noise when it got to the end of agitation and though it did complete the cycyle it was beginning to snag clothes under the agitator....don't know how. Found that the agitator coupler was cracked in 4 places. Washer is only a year and a half. 4 family washing..so I wanted this fixed quick. The part came super quick..like two days and I was not expecting it for 4 - 10 days...so great and it was cheaper than other places I checked even with paying shipping! I watched the video of installing the coupler--very helpful! I removed the agitator, then removed the agitator coupler....this was already done before the part arrived. When the new coupler arrived, I just had to drop it down onto the spline...there are grooves it must fit to...then I applied the hold down bolt. I used my wrachet/socket to tighten it, but you can use an adjustable wrench. I'm short so reaching down into the washer bowl to get to tighten the bolt was a little ackward..should have used a stool. The loud sound the washer was making before replacing the part stopped and I am back in business...doing ugly washing....LOL! One thing I will mention....nothing to do with the part...but I had without thinking placed the agitator back into the washer bowl....WITHOUT bolting it down..then put the agitator on top of the old coupler. So this made it lock in place under the agitator. My agitator does not have an opening at the top after removing the dust cap inside so there was no way to knock the coupler down and out from the top by putting a long wrench or something down through the top of the agitator(the video shows how to do this also)...sooo....because the agitator coupler locks in place behind moveable clips, I took eight butter knives and wedged them behind each clip on the underside of the coupler pushing each back and was then was able to separate the agitator coupler from the agitator by pulling it forward with my fingers...so don't test putting the agitator over the coupler without first bolting it down! This is all a lot to say about such a small part but this small part is crucial to being able to complete a wash..an ugly wash that is...haha!

This top loading washer was purchased new in 2006. It has had a good bit of use and was a rather inexpensive model, but had been working fine. Suddenly the agitator stopped working. First I pulled off the agitator inside the machine, which in this model came off in one piece. In order to do that I grabbed it at the very bottom by pushing my fingers underneath the base, then rocked it from side to side while pulling up on it until it popped off. This exposed the agitator gear that had gone bad. I unbolted the gear and pulled it off. This removal took a bit of effort, and again, we had to rock it back and forth while pulling up on it until it finally came loose. When the new part arrived a few days later, we slipped it onto the transmission stem, and bolted it into place. Then the agitator was put back on and snapped into place. Works as good as new for less than $14, including shipping!

remove the agitator by just pulling it up, remove the bolt that hold the agitator coupling down and install the new one.

I work in hvac, I more or less understand the older electro mechanical non electronic machines so I gave diagnosis a stab. I already knew that the water level switch could cause problems. I noted that the hot and cold water fill valve solenoids DID shut off tightly. While testing, I tried blowing and sucking on switch hose port and listened for a clear click; no click. At this point you replace the switch just to be sure. I blew out on outlet side of vinyl tubing going into water in tub. Used model and serial number to locate part on website. I physically removed water level switch (you twist it off by gently prying under a tab and turning 90 degrees) or else remove switch with short mini philips. I very carefully compared the removed switch visually to the very good multiple multi position photos on website. That showed me that the switches looked the same. So when I orderred the part I was 98% sure it was right. The part arrived and was correct. I installed it in 5 minutes, tested it with different levels. Machine repaired! Recorded part number in computer notes.