GTWN5650F2WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pried the front cover off the washer and then rotated the tub around for easier access to the hose clamp. Used screwdriver on hose clamp then detached spring clamp from pump inlet. Reversed the procedure for repair!

First I had to remove the front cover to the washer.
Then it was just a matter of using the nut driver to loosen the clamp holding the hose to the tub portion, and a channel lock for the clip on the drain pump. Pull the old hose out, do the same thing vise versa for the install... Only hard part was the clamp on the drain pump was being a little difficult (but no big deal).

Unpacked the agitator from the box. Manually pulled off the old agitator and snapped on the new one. Total repair time was under 2 mins. Much better than a $120 service call.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .

Popped the front cover off and found a small hole was in the drain hose going to the pump,used pliers for one clamp and nut driver for the other clamp,removed bad hose and installed the new hose,ran water pump after putting some water in the tub,checked for leaks,put the front cover back on,that was it.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

replaces as per video. Very helpful

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

Followed the video with one exception. The hose clamps were the spring-loaded type and putting the back hose clamp on was a problem, so I substituted a nut driven hose clamp. Other than that, no problems.