WLSE4210A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- MARK from GROVE CITY, OH
- Parts Used:
- WH23X10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Had a water leak that appeared to come from underneath the washer
I decided without see exactly where the water was coming from to replace the pump and all the drain or inlet hoses, connectors, whatever carried water due to the age of the machine, almost 17 years old. I also decide to change the tub seal.
1. unplug
2. disconnect water supply
3. remove back of washer
4. laid washer on its front on a rug
5. removed the drain and filler hoses (3) different hoses and all new clamps
6. closed up everything, hooked up everything ran short cycle
WHEN THE PUMP STARTED SO DID THE WATER POURING OUT FROM UNDER THE WASHER, MORE THAN BEFORE I CHANGED OUT THE PARTS
I decided the tub seal was leaking. It was a logical decision and it was the last part that carried water that I didn't change.
1. remove front panel
2. remove top panel
3. remove electrical connection inside pane and remove entire top panel
4. remove agitator and agitator cup
5. remove top ring that hold inner liner
6. here is the problem, a special tool is required to remove the tub seal nut or a 1-11/16" socket that I didn't have
7. tried a new pipe wrench and rust buster taking care that the nut is soft metal
8. decided to purchase the correct tool(socket) and put everything back together to do two weeks worth of laundry
I left the front panel off to pinpoint where the water leaks was and when the pump started there was no leak in the washer. However, water was pouring across the floor.
I found that the house drain pipe was cracked on the top and back. This was on the outlet side of the trap. I would have never suspected the drain (PVC) with no stress or load on it to crack across the top of the pipe.
So anyway, $240 later for washer parts and $6.47 for a new piece of PVC I no longer have a problem, wrong!
Started a load of laundry and the washer will only fill for a small load.
1. Removed the front panel
2. removed the tube to the fill switch thinking there was water in it that's making the switch think its full when its not, NO WATER.
3. Shot air in the tube and made sure the switch clicked audibly
4 Started the washer with the fill switch tube off and waited for waited for water to start flowing out and then hooked up the tube and it shut off the water with a full load. Everything worked.
Tub seal still not changed but no leaks.
1. unplug
2. disconnect water supply
3. remove back of washer
4. laid washer on its front on a rug
5. removed the drain and filler hoses (3) different hoses and all new clamps
6. closed up everything, hooked up everything ran short cycle
WHEN THE PUMP STARTED SO DID THE WATER POURING OUT FROM UNDER THE WASHER, MORE THAN BEFORE I CHANGED OUT THE PARTS
I decided the tub seal was leaking. It was a logical decision and it was the last part that carried water that I didn't change.
1. remove front panel
2. remove top panel
3. remove electrical connection inside pane and remove entire top panel
4. remove agitator and agitator cup
5. remove top ring that hold inner liner
6. here is the problem, a special tool is required to remove the tub seal nut or a 1-11/16" socket that I didn't have
7. tried a new pipe wrench and rust buster taking care that the nut is soft metal
8. decided to purchase the correct tool(socket) and put everything back together to do two weeks worth of laundry
I left the front panel off to pinpoint where the water leaks was and when the pump started there was no leak in the washer. However, water was pouring across the floor.
I found that the house drain pipe was cracked on the top and back. This was on the outlet side of the trap. I would have never suspected the drain (PVC) with no stress or load on it to crack across the top of the pipe.
So anyway, $240 later for washer parts and $6.47 for a new piece of PVC I no longer have a problem, wrong!
Started a load of laundry and the washer will only fill for a small load.
1. Removed the front panel
2. removed the tube to the fill switch thinking there was water in it that's making the switch think its full when its not, NO WATER.
3. Shot air in the tube and made sure the switch clicked audibly
4 Started the washer with the fill switch tube off and waited for waited for water to start flowing out and then hooked up the tube and it shut off the water with a full load. Everything worked.
Tub seal still not changed but no leaks.
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- Customer:
- Priscilla from Beverly, MA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
broken dampening strap
Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.
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- Customer:
- James from YARDLEY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Broken knob and could not turn on dryer
followed the video you provided and it was easy!
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- Customer:
- Margaret from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My dryer wouldn't start, I saw the part on your website after reading comments from other people
I put the nob on the post, one side is flat the rest of the lever on the dryer is round. So I matched up the lever with he inside of the new knob and slid it on . The dryer works perfectly. I ordered it on May 5 th and the nob arrived May 15 th. I guess Georgia is a long way from Arizona. But the part fit perfectly and I am happy. Thankyou.
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- Customer:
- audrey from WHITING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10106
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
dryer shut off and would not go back on
After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY
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- Customer:
- Sally from MANHATTAN, KS
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The Start knob broke off
At first the knob seemed like it would not fit on, but after I sprayed it with WD-40 oil, it slipped with a gentle, steady push
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- Customer:
- Leisha from Trinity, NC
- Parts Used:
- WH49X10042
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Washer would fill and drain, but not agitate the clothes, I kept getting a pile of laundry soap in the bottom of the washer and left with dirty clothes
Removed the screws, pulled out the tall skinny thing that rotates, pulled out the broken part, ordered the new one, replaced it, (you have to push down until it snaps into place) Put everything back together and had clean laundry within 45 minutes. Anyone can replace this part.
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- Customer:
- robert from bradford, VT
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench set
Tub would shake and the whole machine was threatening to jump
As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Swanton, OH
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Washer tub was banging around violently during spin cycle
After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.
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- Customer:
- dennis from harwinton, CT
- Parts Used:
- WH41X10077
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Leaking at housing
This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.
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- Customer:
- Gustavo from Harlingen, TX
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Shaking and making loud noise
removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.
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- Customer:
- Timmy from Fairport, NY
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Banging noise when it was agitating
removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.
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- Customer:
- kenneth from mazeppa, MN
- Parts Used:
- WH01X39337
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
broken dampening straps
removed front of washer and removed top of washer very easy to replace 4 dampening straps (2 straps were broken replaced all 4
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- Customer:
- Arthur D from COLUMBIA, MD
- Parts Used:
- WH49X10042
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
The agtator wasn't working to clean the clothes.
Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.
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- Customer:
- Hubert from Louisville, KY
- Parts Used:
- WH13X10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
When we turned the washer on , it skipped the fill mode and went straight to the spin mode
After removing the top part of the washer where the water inlet valve is located, I removed the wires and the 2 screws that held the valve in place. Then I unhooked the plastic water line that went to the tank.. After that it was just putting the new valve in following the same steps as I took it out. Very easy.
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