WLSE4210A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pull off the agitator. Remove 1 bolt on coupler pull off coupler. Slide new coupler onto spindle. Replace bolt. Line up and slide on agitator. Seat it firmly in place. Done. Took all of 2 minutes.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

Replaced the plastic agitator coupler

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

took the two screws that holds the instrument selections off retreived the directions from inside this panel and followed directions step by step and removed the spline that makes the machine agitate, seen that the inside of the spline was smooth, ordered part and reversed operation in putting it back together.
p.s. make sure the refill shutoff hose is connected as we had forgot to do this and we ran water on the floor, had to take back apart and re-connect thehose .

ordering the part and fixing it myself with my sons help saved me a repair bill which I am sure would have cost me at least $75.00 more.

Remove top of washer control panel to access filler. My hands are not large by t was difficult removing the old part and carefully trying not to drop mounting screws. Had to loosen screws twisting threads with pliers. No access for regular Phillips screwdriver. Patience is needed.

replaces as per video. Very helpful