GTW460ASJAWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Installing the inlet value was very easy the only thing was a very small "O" ring wasn't supplied with the value, so I removed the one on the leaking value. Not care must be taken not to damage the used "O"
The washer is running with no leaks
Thank you, for, saving me hundreds of dollars

1 Disconnect power 2) Cut water supply to washer 3) Disconnect water supply hoses from supply.
***if pump broke with water in tub, remove water from tub. 4) tip machine onto it's front side 5) remove hose clamp of exhaust hose & then remove exhaust hose from pump 6) Remove pump with socket/ratchet 7) disconnect pump electrical plug 8) tell old pump to take a hike & throw in garbage 9)Iinstall new pump 10) Do steps 7—1 in reverse order to put back into business.******Be prepared to do it again in 6 months; I havnt had good luck!

Being a woman I had to figure out tipping it in its front. I put it on a dollie and drop it down real easy.
Removed all water lines after water was shut off.
Removed bolts. Removed bolts on plate to the right to unplug old pump.
Plugged in new one and replaced all bolts, hoses and tipped her back up. Works like a charm and I saved $408 by doing it myself!!!!!

Open up the top of the washer per instructions. Remove the old switch and wiring harness. Install the new wiring harness and switch. The instructions that were provided are very descriptive so the installation went flawlessly. The switch has been redesigned and looks to be more robust than the original. The washer now works like new.

Took 4 screws out of back of control panel. Tested old capacitor. Installed new one. Put back on tested spin cycle everything is doing great

Take cover off use socket driver to remove two hex head machine screws. There was a foam piece attached to the old part that i pealed off and attached to the new part. It’s there to prevent rattles. There is a tube that pulls out of the old part and a grommet inside that must be removed and placed in the new part. Connect the two electrical plugs and install the new part just like the old part came out.

Emptied the washer, took the back cover off, tipped it foward, unplugge the old pump, remove two mount bolts. The replaced the new pump. The new pump resolved the issue.

Unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, didn’t have to disconnect water lines, set the parts out on the counter as I went over the instructions a couple of times, followed the directions, plugged it back in, worked perfectly again.

Leaned washer back to get to motor. Loosen screws to remove belt cover. Slipped old belt off, cleaned both spinals off, slipped new belt on. Have a good day!

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

easiest repair I have ever made. No problems and was surprised as to how fast and easy it was to repair. I did not need two of steps the instructions stated I had to do. best purchase I have ever made.

I downloaded the repair manual on line and followed the instructions for running the diagnostics. This showed that the selector switches were faulty. I then replaced the selector switches following the instructions in the repair manual. Couldn't have been easier.

I watched a youtube video to see how others performed the repair. My washer was a little different than in the videos but the inlet valve was very easy to access once I pulled the washer out of it's "nook". I took off the back panel of the control "box" (4 screws). Then accessed the valve which was held in place with two screws. The screws were buried behind a few wires so they were a little difficult to access but not impossible. I did need to use my 1/4" box end wrench as my son had borrowed my socket set.

The people at PartsSelect were helpful in selecting the right part and the repair is working fine. My wife is happy.

Just follow the directions, it's easy. My biggest gripe is with Whirlpool. We moved into this house about a year ago; the dishwasher was new at that time. The house we moved from also had a similar Whirlpool dishwasher, less than a year old. Both had these roller assemblies break. The replacement parts are from Whirlpool, and of much better quality. I don't understand why they don't use the better parts when making the unit.

I replaced the Pump Drain assembly. It was very easy. Removed 3 bolts and disconnected the electrical wire harness and put new one on. It works great.