GTW460ASJAWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I watch a YouTube video with the same problem and follow each step

Cleaned pulleys. Replaced worn belt.

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

I ordered a drive belt later to go with this repair which I wish I had done when I ordered the speed sensor and saved shipping. I think that was the real culprit. I had get customer service to help me with the part number because it wasn't listed on the parts list.

I set washer to drain and spin empty to get as much water out as possible. Tilted washer on its side on top of two thick cushions so was about a 15 degree angle off the floor and didn't spill leftover water in the drum.
I took the protective cover off using socket wrench for the 3 bolts. There was belt shreds all over the bottom. Took off smaller drive wheel with socket wrench in order to get to speed sensor. Speed sensor is connected on the motor frame. I used two small flathead screwdrivers in the slots to unsnap the old part. Cleaned off belt debris. Connected the new speed sensor wires first then should click into place. Put drive wheel back on. Put new belt on small drive wheel and lined up grooves. Note that the new drive belt will be smaller than the old one. I found the easiest way to get the new belt on is to hold it on the small wheel and start wrapping the belt on one side of the large wheel and rotating the wheels which is going to turn the drum. Sort of how you would rechain a bike which shows my age!
Put protective cover back on.

The last thing I did was since I had access to the bottom of the drum was to clean out the pressure line port which can lead to spin issues. It is about half an arms length up the side of drum above the drain hose. Its a small gray tubing attached to the drum. Pull the tubing off and it reveals a little port that can get clogged. Use your1/16th drill bit and put in the port about an inch to inch and half and clear out the port. Re-attach the hose firmly.

Machine working as good as new and clothes are almost bone dry now!

We had a steady drip of water coming from the top of the washer. I felt around to find that it was coming from the blue plastic piece from which the water comes when the washer is filling, which is the water inlet valve assembly. There was no water leaking from the hoses, and so I figured that the problem must be the water inlet valve. It was a very easy replacement:

1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet.
2. Turn off the water supply to the washer.
3. Disconnect the hoses directly at the back of the washer, remembering which one was on which side. You can also attach them to the new water inlet valve assembly at this time, as it can be installed with the hoses on.
4. Remove the two vertical screws at the back of the washer. They are on the far sides. Use a quarter inch bit to remove them. Keep them nearby.
5. You can now gently remove the control panel top by pulling up and toward the back of the machine. Be gentle so that you do not pull up any wires or dislodge any hoses!
6. You will see two electrical plugs attached to the inlet valves. Gently unplug them. One of them has a plastic tab holding it on, so pull that up carefully as you slide it off.
7. There is a small circular plug in the center of the blue inlet valve assembly. Gently remove it by prying it up from the metal circle. There is also a small rubber o-ring that should still be attached to that plug, but it might have come loose and still be in the water inlet valve contraption, so pull it out with something and stick it back on the plug with the circle metal piece.
8. Remove two small screws that are near each other that hold the blue inlet valve assembly in place. There is also a metal bracket holding it there that will come loose once these screws are removed.
9. You can now remove the entire blue plastic piece by rotating it and pulling through the hole.
10. Put the new water inlet valve in, and plug everything in the way it was, securely fastening screws and hoses. Be sure that no other hoses or wires came loose from the control panel.
11. Plug the washer back into the power, turn the water back on, and that should be it!

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

Following directions from a Youtube video.

Replacement was extremely easy:
1. Shutoff Water Valves
2. Removed hoses from Washer
3. Removed two screws to get control unit off.
4. Removed wires to valve assembly.
5. Removed Screw holding assembly in place.
6. Removed temp sensor from assembly.
7. Unit came right out and reversed the process for replacement Unit.
8. Very easy...

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

First thing is to download and print the programming instructions for the new control board. The instructions for downloading come with the control board. The control board fits multiple models and has to be programmed for your particular model. Unplug the washer and pull it out enough to work from the back. Remove the main control knob by pulling it off. At the top back use the nut driver and remove the 4 screws holding the metal cover. There’s a ground wire attached to the inside of the panel that doesn’t have to be removed. Let the metal cover dangle. Remove the two screws that hold the top control panel. They are located at the ends of the control panel. Slide the main control panel towards the back of the washer above 1/2” and lift it up and roll towards the front of the washer which puts the main control board in a position that allows removal. Unplug all of the connectors. Remove the 3 or 4 screws holding the plastic board stiffener, unsnap the two posts holding it to the control board and remove it. Remove the main control board. Compare the old and new board. If they match install the new board in the reverse order of removal. After reassembly and putting the washer back in place, plug it in and follow the programming instructions. My replacement of the control board went very well except the first new control board didn’t work. There was one complete zone that didn’t function. I called Parts Select and they sent me another control board which worked and the refunded the cost of the defective board but I was out some shipping expense.

There's two nuts on the back of the washer holding the metal backplate. I used my 11-1 Klein screwdriver. Once you get the screws out lift the backplate slightly and pull the whole top assembly out of it's spot and lean it forward onto top of the washer.

Take pictures of where the wires go so you can remember for later.

Disconnect the two wires and remove the two screws holding the metal plate. Same size nuts driver as the other screws.

Remove the sensor by just wiggling it out.
Slide the intake assemby out of it's spot.
Slide the new one in.
Then just do everything you did in reverse.

Takes 10 minutes. Super easy.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

IF you do the same repair, SAVE THE LITTLE O-RING that is inside the old part where the temperature probe stick in (If that is indeed what it is). It's chrome in color. New part does NOT come with that O-ring

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.