WCCB1030F General Electric Washer - Instructions

Well first I had to remove the control panel and that was nice because there was a diagram of the washer in there. So after that I just removed the top, front panel of the washer and top of the drum. Since the hub was broken all around I was able to remove the drum without removing the big nut or the part of the hub that was still attached to the shaft.
This gave me a little more room to remove the nut and hub. The nut was difficult and tight. I struggled with it for some time and got nowhere. I then realized that the nut was aluminum and so I just heated it up a bit and it came off with little effort. I had to heat up the remaining part of the hub also to get it off.
It doesn’t take much heat to get these parts moving. I used a small torch but a heat gun would be better. Also I painted the new hub to try to slow down the corrosion effect water has on the pot metal. I just used some rattle can engine paint I had.
I then cleaned all the parts and put it all back together and all is good.

Remove top of washer, 2 screws,support washer tub use wood block,s to support washer tub, remove old support rod replace with new, that's it, replace top, done. Thank You

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

Turn the washer around and take off top back plate behind the controls. Fold controls forward out of the way. Disconnect electrical connection on triple valve by lifting holding clip slightly and pulling out plug. Remove clamp from hose at valve and pull off hose. Remove two screws and replace valve. Install new valve in reverse order.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

I had to replace the water fill nozzle on my GE washer, and having the instruction video on the parts page is a real time-saver. It shows how to remove each part on your washer in order to access the area where the part needs to be replaced. Start to finish, about 20 minutes. Easy peasy.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.

Followed the U-Tube video, but...don't waste your time trying to remove the spanner nut with a wrench. Just cut off with a grinder. Second, the hub was locked solid on the transmission shaft. Ended up cutting that off with a grinder also. Would have same myself a few hours of work and lots of frustration if I just cut them off from the beginning instead of trying to remove per the video. Otherwise, very doable, and not a bad job to do yourself.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.