FFFW5000QW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

The store I bought the washer from was going to charge $150 service call and over $60 for the part. I searched on the internet and found what i needed at partselect.com. The part was under $7 and the shipping cost more than the actual part. 2 screws, 1 screwdriver and it was fixed. Thanks!

2 screws off and put new striker in and replaced the screws

My 10 yr old son removed the two screws, placed the new strike on, and screwed it back into place!! So easy a child did it!!

First, I recommend you have a second pair of hands. The chrome door is quite heavy. Using Phillips screwdriver I removed the screws that attached the door to the frame. I had a helper hold the door while I removed the screws.
Once hinge screws were removed I put a towel down on a counter to keep the front of the door from getting marked up and proceeded to remove all of the screws around the back of the door so that I could lift the frame up enough to remove the broken hinge and insert the new hinge. It was a bit tricky to get the new hinge with bushings in place. I gently lifted the frame up with a flat head screw driver to widen the opening so I could get the bushings on the new hinge into position on the frame. Make sure they are properly inserted before you start tightening up screws.
Next, replaced all the screws on the frame, returned to the washing machine with helper who held the door up while I aligned the holes in the new hinge to the holes in the frame around the opening to the washer.
After everything was secured and tightened, to my surprise, the door latch did NOT line up with catch without lifting up about a 1/4" or a little more, on the bottom of the door. If someone slams the door without doing that you could break off part of the plastic latch or damage the catch inside the door frame.
I believe the original holes on the door frame were not drilled precisely during the manufacturing process and that is why the bottom bushing broke. We have always had to lift up a bit on the door to line up the latch with the catch. Eventually the strain on the bottom bushing caused it to break and then the door tilted down so you had to lift it up about 3/4 inch to latch it. I bought new hinge because if the top bushing broke the door could have come off.
Next time I buy a washing machine, I will pay more attention to the line up of the door latch with the door catch.
Flashlight helped me line up the holes.

PartSelect had the part in stock, shipped that day. The part was delivered the next day, my wife had it installed and working when I got home from work.

I had called a repair man; and fortunately he never returned my call. After reading many of the reviews involved with the same problem, and wanting to use my washer, I decided it was easy enough to give it a try. And so it was. 2 screws in back removed the cover; and 2 screws in the front of the washer permitted the removal of the affected part. Removed three "plugs" from old; put them on the new part; replaced it back in the washer, and replaced the two front screws, which held it in place. Replaced top, securing with the two screws. And surprise - surprise -- the washing machine was working again! Your reviews were so helpful and encouraging --- that this really old lady decided to try it --- and like they all said "It was really easy to fix."

After accidentally dropping a crystal clock (don't ask) near the open door of the front-loading washer, the plastic striker broke and couldn't be repaired. Without this part being functional, the washer won't start because the door can't be secured.

I ordered the new part, and it arrived quickly -- that's really the story here.

Replacing it meant removing two screws, pulling the damaged part off, slapping the new part in, and replacing the screws. My 4th grade daughter could have done this one -- wish they were all that easy!

I'm glad the part came so quickly. With a local supplier, it would have taken four more days.

By unscrew the washer Machine door off' then place the door flat surface and start to unscrewed each screw carefully keep all the screws together then remove the broken glass that you don't cut yourself in a safe place, then place the New glass back on & replaced all the screws back on tightly once all the screws back in then replaced it back on to the washer Machine, make sure you pre-test your washer Machine for no leaks.

Took the old one off and snapped in the new one.

Turned circuit Off at breaker panel Extracted metal seal ring from tumbler seal,loosened/extracted 2 screws holding assembly,pulled 2 wires,Reversed sequence with New lock assembly,made sure tumbler seal was seated securely,turned breaker on,tested,Complete!

I started with a Phillips head Screw driver and removed the screws from the current Door strike and replaced with a new one. To replace the Door Lock and switch assembly I had to access the right portion of the door gasket which was a little tricky, as it has a wire ring around the gasket to keep it in position. It has never been removed so it was fairly stuck so I took some pliers to pull on the gasket and ring to loosen it up. Once I got it off I was able to remove the Gasket just enough to access the electrical components to the Switch assembly. I loosened the screws on the current switch assembly using a Phillips head screw driver and removed it through the access point then unplugged the current wiring harness from the switch assembly and plugged the new switch assembly in. Then I tightened up the screws on the new switch assembly. re attaching the gasket was possibly the most time consuming as there is a metal lip on the door itself that the gasket has to wrap around in order to re attach the metal ring and hold everything in place. I took a flat head screw driver and ran it along the edges of the metal lip while pulling the gasket to secure it around the lip then I wrapped the metal around the gasket to secure it to the metal lip in the door ( Note: the metal ring has a spring that should be positioned at the bottom of the door once it's installed correctly, you will notice the gasket is shaped at the bottom to allow for the spring) Once I completed that I made sure all screws where tightened and then checked the unit to be sure it worked properly. It is working perfectly and no more error message.