970L48422E0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.

took the top off removed the old one and put in the new one.Works great!!

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Thank you.

First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!

Completed by my wife on line instruction video

This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.

Easy repair, buy shipping took much longer than advertised!

I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out