970L48422E0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.

removed top of washer then removed the screws that held the lock in place. only hard part was the lack of room to slide my hand down to get the lock from inside the washer,and put the new one in. managed to find a tech sheet in the washer to put the washer in a "service mode" that is where i could make the washer do a final spin.but it still gave me a code that the door lock was not working properly.(even though it still locked)replaced the lock with a new one and the code disappeared and did a full final spin.. thanks guys

There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.

I merely unscrewed the two screws at the top and bottom of the striker, removed the broken part, and screwed on the new one. It probably took about five minutes. I was very proud, as I was able to identify the problem, order the part and install it without involving my husband :-)

Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.

I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks

Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.

You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out