FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I removed the bottom front panel ( 2 screws) and about 8- 10 inches back were the shock absorbers...the one on the left was easiest nothing in way I squeezed the locking tab and pushed the pin thru to remove the shock absorber...on the right side was a little tricky but got my arm round the drain hose and small pump and pushed that pin thru as well...installed new shocks and was good to go...I did call a local repair business here in belleview florida was told the shocks themselves would cost 37.00 for the pair and about 150 - 175 in labor...I paid 22.00 from parts select and did my own labor thanks for all the help...les

If you can tie your shoes you can make this repair. 23 Screws, 2 spring clamps, new part fit perfect, inspected old hoses and installed identical part. Wife says "it's working great"

First I unplugged. The machine from the outlet then disconnected the two water supply lines from the machine. Next I removed the back panel to gain access to the bottom of the drum. Next I took a nut driver and used it to depress the little tab on the push pin that hold the bottom part of the strut on. After getting the pins out I replaced the old strut assembly withe the new one. I used the nut driver again. But this time I used it as a set tool. Place the nut driver on the end of the push pin and gently tap with a hammer. Until the pin is all the way in. After that I reversed the assembly process to put the machine back together.

Everything on the video was fine except when reinstalling the shocks with the plastic pins it was almost impossible to get a hammer back inside to knock in shock on left side and had a plastic part on the right side behind the shock absorber which you could not use a hammer and could pry on that part out of fear of damaging it when reinstalling pin So the video just said the right side just like the left but each side was different in what was located by each side Just confusing meaning you had to be creative in solving them!

Removed two screws at base on front and dropped cover.Recognized broken shock absorbers as problem or possible result of more critical problem.Removed broken shocks (obstinate pins:use proper open end wrench to engage pin beneath head and drive wrench handle to pull pin. Of course, at same time, push in lock on pin's point to release)and ordered part number.Installed new shocks.Plastic pins were originally "top" toward rear, but shocks could be rotated so pins would engage bushings properly with "top" toward rear or facing front (bushings have a "stop" opposite side pin is driven in).I rotated the shock "heads" and "shafts" as I saw fit for easiest installation (some pins head forward, others head back).One shock had a head location that made it difficult to push through the hole. I located a "service" hole in the back of washer almost directly opposite this head.Used wooden dowel (maybe 20 inches)through hole in back and hammer to drive pin in place.Liquid hand soap seemed okay lubricant for all pins.

After taking the top and bottom covers off I used a few pieces of 2x4 as a lever to lift the tub from the bottom as much as possible(stood on it). I hooked the tub side of the spring on and used a strong piece of rope through the upper attachment point to lift the tub the rest of the way and stretch the spring in place then cut the rope away. Use something like a screwdriver through the top loop of the rope for the lift. Good luck :)

the existing pin was in backwards and to get it out was a problem because there was not enough room behind the pin to get it out.also i thiugh there was 2 pins in the kit and there was only one.

Remove lower front panel. Left shock is easier than right. Push in on the bump on the tip of white pin. Tap out to rear and same with upper. Assure you follow orientation instuctions for new shock absorbers. Now the hard side. Push in the bump on the lower white pin tip and drive back and possibably angle up slightly to get end of shock out. It is up against the side of an aluminum box of some sort. To remove the top pin you need to use a pliers to squeeze hose clamp and separate black tubing from white plastic. Move out of the way to get at pin. Again push bump and drive out pin. Replace new shock bottom first. I tapped the angle down first to start front of pin then, I used a small pry bar and piece of wood to press the pin back into position from the rear against the aluminum box. Now the top. A short hammer is helpful to tap pin in from rear. Be very carefull putting the hoses back together and move the clamp into position. Make sure this is correct. Test washer. Replace front panel. See, you didn't need a new washer yet. Use some of the savings to treat yourself. Watch the video but realize he skips the hard parts.

took off front an back panels-pushed half inch socket over pins and pulled them out with channel locks from opposite side of socket-need a piece of broom handle or something about 2 ft. long to tap pins back in to make installation easier

The video was helpful and gave good ideas to look for, it was harder to reach the pins holding each end. I used a 6-8 inch dowel rod to remove and replace the plastic pins. First time always takes longer than advertised but I wasn't in a big hurry.

In the video sent it showed how to replace the shocks with only removing the lower front panel. I found it was easier to also remove the back panel. There are more screws but it provided open access to the pins that needed to be removed. The parts went in easily and when compared to the original equipment looked stronger.

took the back panel off then removed the rubber belt. Using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning I removed the bolt holding the pulley on. Replaced the pulley tightened the bolt back up again using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning put the belt and back panel.

Removed front access panel to get to shock absorbers. Removed mounting pins with hammer & pliers. Replaced both with dual-stage shocks provided in kit (Of course, piston side down). Getting to right-side shock upper mount was the only tricky part of removal & replacement. Otherwise, not too bad. This is a repair most anyone can do. Shock absorber kit solved vibration issues.

I followed the instructions enclosed with the parts and removed the front access panel. Following the instructions for removal of the shock absorber mounting pins for the mount on the left hand side of the washer (as observed from the front) was difficult. I depressed the pin using my finger and I used a small nut driver to push the pin out. The nut driver was smaller than the pin and helped push the pin completely out. Even so, this require a lot of effort and I cut my hand when it slipped (no job worth doing always requires a little bloodletting). Installation of the replacement shock absorber in this position required moderate effort but went well. After a lot of effort trying to remove the pins on the shock absorber on the right hand side of the washer it became obvious that it was impossible to do it from the front of the washer. Other objects in the washer obstructed access to the pins. So I had to remove the back panel of the washer to aid in accessing the pins. At this point I required the assistance of my wife to depress the tab on the pins while I pulled on the pins with a pair of pliers’. The bottom pin has an obstruction where the pin pulls out. Removing the pin required quite an effort and nearly broke the pin (I guess that is why a replacement pin is in the kit). We installed the pin for this bottom mount in the opposite direction than the original pin was installed. I am sure that I saved a lot of money by doing this myself, but I would not recommend others to do it themselves.

Took the back off the machine. pulled out the old shocks and installed the new. Put the back on. Simple