FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

lean washer back against wall, remove 2 screws from lower front panel.remove spring from front panel boot seal, pull seal loose from front panel, squeeze clamp and pull seal from detergent fill tube,remove spring from rear seal/ boot to drum, watch to see how it is attached to ease install of new one.lube new seal/boot rear section with dish soap. push seal on to drum working clockwise from top. it is difficult to get started, make sure arrow is pointing straight up at 12:00 oclock. replace spring around boot, start at one end and use spacers provided,have some one help with this. rest is simple. clip on detergent boot and use needle nose pliers to replace clamp, (a little difficult)crap type clamp. install seal to front panel and install spring. Done in about 1 hour. Directions were photo copy and dark and hard to see pictures.

I am a 63 year old woman. This was the third time the pump would not drain due to a jammed up water pump. I had paid around $200 TWICE for a service man to fix this. He said it was a common problem with this model of washing machine. I thought next time it happened, I was going to buy a new machine. So when the third time came around, I thought I would take a look before junking the whole machine, it seems like such a waste. The pump was not jammed up, so I needed a new pump. I have gone this far, so I thought I would try to replace the pump. THANKS to your video instructions, it looked like something I could do. Had problems getting the back hose back on. AGAIN THANKS to your video instructions I watched Steve put on the back hose about six times until I got his technique down pat. Do not know if I could have done it without studying Steve's technique. Thank you so much. I feel so powerful and good about myself. Did not junk a washing machine for one part. Go green!

first off I watch the video on how to take this apart and how hard it would be for a women to do it. I then ordered the part from you guys which got here quickly and started the tore down with taking off the front panel on the bottom, unplugging the unit and turning off the water. then I got plenty of towels and started with unpluging the pump, and using a vise grip took off clamps, water drained out and replaced with new pump, when I restarted it still would not drained, found the filter which is located in the big hose itself that comes off the tub filled with hair and junk, you can take a needle nose pliers to pull out the clog or work the white plastic piece out to clean it all the way out then replace back into big hose. put back together and it works.. Thank you..

Unplug the unit and disconnect the water lines. Remove the rear and top panels of the washer housing. Remove the drive belt and pulley. Use caution when removing the pulley as it is cast aluminium and will crack fairly easily. Remove the 3 8mm hex screws securing the motor, remove the motor. Remove the brick counter weight. Next remove the lower drainage hose on the under side of the drum. Remove the front rubber seal, there is a metal ring clamp around it tucked behind it, just stretch the spring to remove. (do not be afraid of this step it was very simple to re-install. I tried to avoid this step initially and leave the drum inside the housing, this was extremely annoying as it is very difficult to access the drum fasteners.)Remove the two shock absorbers by squeezing the front of the plastic pins and pulling on the rear with pliers. The drum should be hanging by the springs, next unhook the springs and pull the drum out(I had a friend help with this, the drum is pretty heavy but is managable by yourself if needed) you may have to disconnect the small air hose that connects to the pressure switch in order to slide the drum out. With the drum out simply unscrew the 20 - 10mm fasteners with a drill and socket adapter/extensions. With all the fasteners out you can seperate the two halves and remove the metal wash drum by taping on the shaft with a rubber mallet (do not hit the shaft with a metal hammer, it will mushroom the end and you will have difficulty reinstalling it. Use a block of wood if you have too. Once the metal drum is removed slide the new rear housing over it and re-assemble the washer in reverse order. You can do it, this was easier than I expected

Traced the leak to the hose. Figured out the name of the part from a combination of the product manual, YouTube, and PartSelect.com's pretty-darn-intelligent parts guides. Used regular pliers to pinch the clamps, and removed the old leaky hose. (Wow, it smelled bad!) Yanked out the debris, then pulled out the coin trap by extending the accordion-like hose, to put in the new hose. Reattaching is really tricky, especially the end that connects to the pump. Make sure that the hose AND CLAMP get all the way onto each hard plastic connectors. A good pair of adjustable vice grip pliers, with half-inch-wide grips, helped a lot! Test the connection by gradually pouring a quart of water into the washer drum. If that holds OK, try washing a load of laundry, watching for any leaks before sealing up the front panel. Good luck!

I failed to replace washre belt. It is too too tight to be replaced by my man power.

The video is very good. I have a stacked unit and didn't want to remove the dryer. It was difficult (but not impossible) to get the pins removed and replaced. I made a removal tool by drilling a 15/32" hole into the end of a 1"x1" piece of wood. Taping on this closed the pin safety and pushed it out.

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Slowly took apart things to be able to get tub out and checked wear of parts. Our spider was in good shape, sounds like depending on your water the spider can in bad shape. Can't buy spider alone have to get $250+ assembly if that is bad. All other parts looked OK so ordered and replaced gasket and cleaned up other items as re-assembled. Takes time, but is do-able. Best with 2 people. Used youtube video to step through disassembly. After putting it back together no leak.

I can't believe how easy this was.I'm a grandmother with M.S.and everal other illnesses.If I can do it any one can..Thankyou for getting my part to me so quickly.I ordered it very late sunday night and I couldn't believe I got it eary Tuesday.thankyou,thankyou,thankyou.

I removed the front panel used a screwdriver to press the tabs on the plastic retainer pins then used a hammer to gently tap each of the plastic mounting pins for the shock absorbers. The left side was very easy but the right side was more difficult due to 2 things. 1. I had to use pliers to remove the hose to gain access to the upper pin. 2. When I replaced the shock absorber the bottom pin had no room to hammer the plastic retaining pin due to a large plastic box directly behind the shock absorber which was not mentioned In the YouTube Partselect tutorial. My quick solution was to replace the plastic retaining pin backwards.its working great with no problems whatsoever .Thank you Partsselect!

I have a stackable unit in a small closet. So unlike others, I couldn't remove the top or back panels and did everything from the lower access panel. I followed the video though multiple caveats as mentioned by others: 1. The right shock absorber is a pain b/c of the box sitting behind, which I could not remove (again, dryer stacked on top and no access to the back). I think its nearly impossible to insert the new plastic pin the correct way (I had to bend the old one to get it out), so like others, I put the new one in backwards (and made sure to change the direction of the shock absorber as well). 2. Reinstalling that hose that blocks access to the right shock absorber is not as easy as it looks. if you get it on right away, don't mess around with it. I had great difficulty trying to get it perfect and ultimately could never get it back to its original position. 3. I'd recommend getting a stubby (short handle) hammer to get the old pins out. As mentioned by others, you can also just use your fingers to depress the tab to get them out. After installing the shocks, it solved the problem except for the last 4-5 minutes (high spin speed). I had planned to try to see if the suspension spring was broken, but after running the washer 2 more times, it's now stopped spinning entirely and I'm planning on getting a new washer/dryer (I'm concerned it's now the bearing, possibly b/c i ran the washer 2 more times).

The parts arrived quickly! Partselect is great to work with! Found the new shocks are different; evidently a design change bt Electrolux. The new shocks have free movement before dampening, approx 3/4". Bottom front cover removed, puch in the tab on side of pin then push the pin out. I had difficulty getting the pin to go back in through the new shock but it was ok after I pushed harder. I tried the washer and was very disappointed. Harsh banging when spinning. It was obvious to me that the original shocks had failed as a result of whatever was still wrong with the washer. A search on the internet and I found that the inner tub support structure that is on the back of the inner tub develops cracks and or breaks and then when it spins, lookout! It bangs so violently that I think the washer will beat you out the back door! I chose not to repair the washer due to age and cost of repair. A quick check to see if yours has that problem: look inside the washer and you will see three places on the rear wall of the inner drum( the part that spins). Grab the inside lip of the drum near the front door right in line with each of the three places and pull toward you. You should have no movement. Mine had movement on one out of three, indicating that the support was broken. Good luck.

I noticed that the bottom two screws of the washer tub were quite rusted and there was a leak around them.
I had to
1) Remove the top and rear panels,
2) Remove the detergent dispenser,
3) pull off the bellows from the front panel and disconnect it from the fill input,
4) remove the drive belt,
5) unbolt the drive motor and detach electrical and ground,
6) remove the pins from the top of the shock absorbers and push them to the side of the cabinet,
7) remove the control board and remove electrical connections,
8) disconnect water line connecting detergent to top of wash tub,
9) lift tub (quite heavy) and remove springs from top of frame,
10) with tub facing up, remove the 23 bolts holding the tub halves together,
11) separate tub halves, remove gasket,
12) install new gasket and button everything back up in reverse order.

Followed The instructions provided by "Part Select". Having a stacked washer & Dryer I removed the dryer and the electrical and water connections and the back panel on the washer. After that disassembley was relatively easy. Unfortunately, I got over-zelaous and removed more than I had too. Once apart I found that the Spider Arm on the Inner tub was broken. Bought the parts and reassembled in reverse order using the photos I took upon disassembley. (Trusting memory is not always the best way to go) The thing that irritated me was not being able to purchase the Spider Arm separate from the Inner Tub. Apparently Kenmore wasn't satisfied with their profit margin so they found a way to jack the price up. Regardless, I saved a lot of money and the Washer is running like a top. Parts delivery was as advertised.