FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I noticed that the bottom two screws of the washer tub were quite rusted and there was a leak around them.
I had to
1) Remove the top and rear panels,
2) Remove the detergent dispenser,
3) pull off the bellows from the front panel and disconnect it from the fill input,
4) remove the drive belt,
5) unbolt the drive motor and detach electrical and ground,
6) remove the pins from the top of the shock absorbers and push them to the side of the cabinet,
7) remove the control board and remove electrical connections,
8) disconnect water line connecting detergent to top of wash tub,
9) lift tub (quite heavy) and remove springs from top of frame,
10) with tub facing up, remove the 23 bolts holding the tub halves together,
11) separate tub halves, remove gasket,
12) install new gasket and button everything back up in reverse order.

I followed the instructions enclosed with the parts and removed the front access panel. Following the instructions for removal of the shock absorber mounting pins for the mount on the left hand side of the washer (as observed from the front) was difficult. I depressed the pin using my finger and I used a small nut driver to push the pin out. The nut driver was smaller than the pin and helped push the pin completely out. Even so, this require a lot of effort and I cut my hand when it slipped (no job worth doing always requires a little bloodletting). Installation of the replacement shock absorber in this position required moderate effort but went well. After a lot of effort trying to remove the pins on the shock absorber on the right hand side of the washer it became obvious that it was impossible to do it from the front of the washer. Other objects in the washer obstructed access to the pins. So I had to remove the back panel of the washer to aid in accessing the pins. At this point I required the assistance of my wife to depress the tab on the pins while I pulled on the pins with a pair of pliers’. The bottom pin has an obstruction where the pin pulls out. Removing the pin required quite an effort and nearly broke the pin (I guess that is why a replacement pin is in the kit). We installed the pin for this bottom mount in the opposite direction than the original pin was installed. I am sure that I saved a lot of money by doing this myself, but I would not recommend others to do it themselves.

I failed to replace washre belt. It is too too tight to be replaced by my man power.

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Unplug the unit and disconnect the water lines. Remove the rear and top panels of the washer housing. Remove the drive belt and pulley. Use caution when removing the pulley as it is cast aluminium and will crack fairly easily. Remove the 3 8mm hex screws securing the motor, remove the motor. Remove the brick counter weight. Next remove the lower drainage hose on the under side of the drum. Remove the front rubber seal, there is a metal ring clamp around it tucked behind it, just stretch the spring to remove. (do not be afraid of this step it was very simple to re-install. I tried to avoid this step initially and leave the drum inside the housing, this was extremely annoying as it is very difficult to access the drum fasteners.)Remove the two shock absorbers by squeezing the front of the plastic pins and pulling on the rear with pliers. The drum should be hanging by the springs, next unhook the springs and pull the drum out(I had a friend help with this, the drum is pretty heavy but is managable by yourself if needed) you may have to disconnect the small air hose that connects to the pressure switch in order to slide the drum out. With the drum out simply unscrew the 20 - 10mm fasteners with a drill and socket adapter/extensions. With all the fasteners out you can seperate the two halves and remove the metal wash drum by taping on the shaft with a rubber mallet (do not hit the shaft with a metal hammer, it will mushroom the end and you will have difficulty reinstalling it. Use a block of wood if you have too. Once the metal drum is removed slide the new rear housing over it and re-assemble the washer in reverse order. You can do it, this was easier than I expected

lean washer back against wall, remove 2 screws from lower front panel.remove spring from front panel boot seal, pull seal loose from front panel, squeeze clamp and pull seal from detergent fill tube,remove spring from rear seal/ boot to drum, watch to see how it is attached to ease install of new one.lube new seal/boot rear section with dish soap. push seal on to drum working clockwise from top. it is difficult to get started, make sure arrow is pointing straight up at 12:00 oclock. replace spring around boot, start at one end and use spacers provided,have some one help with this. rest is simple. clip on detergent boot and use needle nose pliers to replace clamp, (a little difficult)crap type clamp. install seal to front panel and install spring. Done in about 1 hour. Directions were photo copy and dark and hard to see pictures.

I am a 63 year old woman. This was the third time the pump would not drain due to a jammed up water pump. I had paid around $200 TWICE for a service man to fix this. He said it was a common problem with this model of washing machine. I thought next time it happened, I was going to buy a new machine. So when the third time came around, I thought I would take a look before junking the whole machine, it seems like such a waste. The pump was not jammed up, so I needed a new pump. I have gone this far, so I thought I would try to replace the pump. THANKS to your video instructions, it looked like something I could do. Had problems getting the back hose back on. AGAIN THANKS to your video instructions I watched Steve put on the back hose about six times until I got his technique down pat. Do not know if I could have done it without studying Steve's technique. Thank you so much. I feel so powerful and good about myself. Did not junk a washing machine for one part. Go green!

I removed the old drain pump by detatching the drain hose and drain boot I replaced the old clamps with the screw type hose clamps which made it easier to install. I then removed the 2 mounting screws securing the drain pump to the base of the washer, replaced the pump by attaching the drain and drain boot and secured the pump to the base of the washer and the washer worked fine.

I took off the bottom cover by removing the two screws on the bottom cover. The shock absorber was completely broken off from its bracket. I pulled the plastic pin on the top and bottom of the shock absorber and installed the new shock. The machine works perfect again spinning out all the water. With the broken shock absorber the drum will shake violently and the machine shuts down. It makes it appear to be an electric control problem.

Followed existing instructions. Easier to install than remove. Install took 1 minute and was obvious once the old vane was removed. Had to break the old one to remove as it didn't slide out as expected. But no problem. Was already broken. :)

2 screws, 2 clamps. The part arrived in one day. It was exactly the correct part and installed easily. No issues, washer is working fine.

Removed Old Part and put on new ones just replaced all and put on new kit so would have all new parts.

I simply read what another person wrote, which was ; Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock.(I didnt have to do this part. I got this from front, bottom panel) Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new. ( it was just this easy)

Took cover off bottem on front of washer and pulled pins out of shocks. Put new shocks in and put the pins back in and reinstalled the cover. It was a easly fix and looking up the parts needed and ordering them was made easy by PartSelect.

Part was perfect! Ordered on a Sunday morning before 10am and was delivered 2 days later. Fixed the washer in 20 minutes which would have cost me hundreds for a service call. And, I can't imagine how long this would have taken if I had tried to find this part the old fashioned way. Awesome, thank you Part Select!!