FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

After watching the video, it was easy to chage them out. Very satisfied with getting order quickly and helpful instructions. Pins came out just like the video, new ones went in with no problem. Washer acting normal again.

2 screws, 2 clamps. The part arrived in one day. It was exactly the correct part and installed easily. No issues, washer is working fine.

Everything on the video was fine except when reinstalling the shocks with the plastic pins it was almost impossible to get a hammer back inside to knock in shock on left side and had a plastic part on the right side behind the shock absorber which you could not use a hammer and could pry on that part out of fear of damaging it when reinstalling pin So the video just said the right side just like the left but each side was different in what was located by each side Just confusing meaning you had to be creative in solving them!

I can't believe how easy this was.I'm a grandmother with M.S.and everal other illnesses.If I can do it any one can..Thankyou for getting my part to me so quickly.I ordered it very late sunday night and I couldn't believe I got it eary Tuesday.thankyou,thankyou,thankyou.

Removed two screws at base on front and dropped cover.Recognized broken shock absorbers as problem or possible result of more critical problem.Removed broken shocks (obstinate pins:use proper open end wrench to engage pin beneath head and drive wrench handle to pull pin. Of course, at same time, push in lock on pin's point to release)and ordered part number.Installed new shocks.Plastic pins were originally "top" toward rear, but shocks could be rotated so pins would engage bushings properly with "top" toward rear or facing front (bushings have a "stop" opposite side pin is driven in).I rotated the shock "heads" and "shafts" as I saw fit for easiest installation (some pins head forward, others head back).One shock had a head location that made it difficult to push through the hole. I located a "service" hole in the back of washer almost directly opposite this head.Used wooden dowel (maybe 20 inches)through hole in back and hammer to drive pin in place.Liquid hand soap seemed okay lubricant for all pins.

The video was helpful and gave good ideas to look for, it was harder to reach the pins holding each end. I used a 6-8 inch dowel rod to remove and replace the plastic pins. First time always takes longer than advertised but I wasn't in a big hurry.

took the back panel off then removed the rubber belt. Using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning I removed the bolt holding the pulley on. Replaced the pulley tightened the bolt back up again using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning put the belt and back panel.

the existing pin was in backwards and to get it out was a problem because there was not enough room behind the pin to get it out.also i thiugh there was 2 pins in the kit and there was only one.

I have a stackable unit in a small closet. So unlike others, I couldn't remove the top or back panels and did everything from the lower access panel. I followed the video though multiple caveats as mentioned by others: 1. The right shock absorber is a pain b/c of the box sitting behind, which I could not remove (again, dryer stacked on top and no access to the back). I think its nearly impossible to insert the new plastic pin the correct way (I had to bend the old one to get it out), so like others, I put the new one in backwards (and made sure to change the direction of the shock absorber as well). 2. Reinstalling that hose that blocks access to the right shock absorber is not as easy as it looks. if you get it on right away, don't mess around with it. I had great difficulty trying to get it perfect and ultimately could never get it back to its original position. 3. I'd recommend getting a stubby (short handle) hammer to get the old pins out. As mentioned by others, you can also just use your fingers to depress the tab to get them out. After installing the shocks, it solved the problem except for the last 4-5 minutes (high spin speed). I had planned to try to see if the suspension spring was broken, but after running the washer 2 more times, it's now stopped spinning entirely and I'm planning on getting a new washer/dryer (I'm concerned it's now the bearing, possibly b/c i ran the washer 2 more times).

In the video sent it showed how to replace the shocks with only removing the lower front panel. I found it was easier to also remove the back panel. There are more screws but it provided open access to the pins that needed to be removed. The parts went in easily and when compared to the original equipment looked stronger.

took off front an back panels-pushed half inch socket over pins and pulled them out with channel locks from opposite side of socket-need a piece of broom handle or something about 2 ft. long to tap pins back in to make installation easier

Remove lower front panel. Left shock is easier than right. Push in on the bump on the tip of white pin. Tap out to rear and same with upper. Assure you follow orientation instuctions for new shock absorbers. Now the hard side. Push in the bump on the lower white pin tip and drive back and possibably angle up slightly to get end of shock out. It is up against the side of an aluminum box of some sort. To remove the top pin you need to use a pliers to squeeze hose clamp and separate black tubing from white plastic. Move out of the way to get at pin. Again push bump and drive out pin. Replace new shock bottom first. I tapped the angle down first to start front of pin then, I used a small pry bar and piece of wood to press the pin back into position from the rear against the aluminum box. Now the top. A short hammer is helpful to tap pin in from rear. Be very carefull putting the hoses back together and move the clamp into position. Make sure this is correct. Test washer. Replace front panel. See, you didn't need a new washer yet. Use some of the savings to treat yourself. Watch the video but realize he skips the hard parts.

After taking the top and bottom covers off I used a few pieces of 2x4 as a lever to lift the tub from the bottom as much as possible(stood on it). I hooked the tub side of the spring on and used a strong piece of rope through the upper attachment point to lift the tub the rest of the way and stretch the spring in place then cut the rope away. Use something like a screwdriver through the top loop of the rope for the lift. Good luck :)

Removed front access panel to get to shock absorbers. Removed mounting pins with hammer & pliers. Replaced both with dual-stage shocks provided in kit (Of course, piston side down). Getting to right-side shock upper mount was the only tricky part of removal & replacement. Otherwise, not too bad. This is a repair most anyone can do. Shock absorber kit solved vibration issues.

lean washer back against wall, remove 2 screws from lower front panel.remove spring from front panel boot seal, pull seal loose from front panel, squeeze clamp and pull seal from detergent fill tube,remove spring from rear seal/ boot to drum, watch to see how it is attached to ease install of new one.lube new seal/boot rear section with dish soap. push seal on to drum working clockwise from top. it is difficult to get started, make sure arrow is pointing straight up at 12:00 oclock. replace spring around boot, start at one end and use spacers provided,have some one help with this. rest is simple. clip on detergent boot and use needle nose pliers to replace clamp, (a little difficult)crap type clamp. install seal to front panel and install spring. Done in about 1 hour. Directions were photo copy and dark and hard to see pictures.