FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.

I replaced both shock absorbers that hold the drum on a front loading washer. They both snapped at the base and have since been replaced by a different style shock absorber. There are 2 pins that hold each part in place. I took 5 minutes to replace 3 pins and about an hour to replace the last one, which was in a very tight spot. After much sweating and swearing, I managed to get the pin back in. Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! Partsselect.com is a dream for straightforward repairs. This is the second repair I have done on this machine (which is less than 5 years old) and both repairs have cost less than $30.

I unplugged washer from wall, removed lower front panel, two screws, then unplugged the pump motor, then removed the two hoses going to and from the pump, spring clamps on hoses, used pliers, removed the two screws with a nut driver that hold the pump/motor assembly to the frame. I then reversed the whole procedure and all is fine now.
I also noticed that the new pump impeller has four blades and the old one had only three, both old and new are made in italy, I assume this makes the pump more efficient.
End of story!!!!!!!!

The front lower access panel pops off with two Philips head screws. From there, the white pins holding the hold broken shock absorbers can be removed by pressing their locking tab down and pushing them free of the bushing.

After pulling the old, broken items out, the new ones are reinstalled the same way: place the metal end towards the drum, push the white pin through the bushing (only one way is correct) and you're almost done. Reinstall the front panel and get back to having a quiet washing machine!

The instructions that came with the new shock absorbers were very detailed and walked me through the repair step by step. The new shock absorbers are much better quality than the old tube style shocks.

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What was not mentioned in the instructions was that the right side pin can not be removed very easilly since there is a large metal box that is mounted directly behind the pin which keeps it from being removed without great effort and potential. I was able to remove the pin without destroying it but it would never go back in the same way because it is impossable to line up the schock, bushing and hole so I installed the pin from the front side and I will take my chances as to how long it lasts. machine seems to be running fine. Thanks

The pump was no problem, 2 screws, 2 hose clamps and 1 wire loom to change. All easy the shock absorbers were back mid washer the left was as the on line instruction stated but the right shock the instructions stated thatyou need the remove the air gap hose but you still could not even get a tool back to get the upper shock pin out much less put it back in. I ended up removing the pump intake boot off to gain acess to the area it only took one more hose clamp. This worked out well as the boot has a built in well to catch items left in pockets. This was emptied while it was out. All in all I was pleased

I followed the great instructions provided on the site and had the old broken struts out in no time. The new ones went in without a hitch and the time it took me to unscrew and rescrew in the back of the machine was longer than the time it took me to replace the broken parts.

Disconnected hoses, unplugged, took off top and back of washer. Removed the white plastic thingys that retained the broken shock absorbers. Installed the new ones, using a hammer and 1/2" copper pipe section to place white plastic thingys. Put back, top on. Reconnected hoses, plugged in. Presto!

Followed the kit instructions to the letter. working around tight clearences was really the only thing to slow me down. The other posts tell the rest of the story better than I can.

You could do the replacement by just removing the maintenance panel on the front, but removing the rear panel gives you more options for getting at the shocks.

The front panel comes off with 2 screws, the back has a lot of screws holding it on, a cordless drill is the way to go.

Prying on the head of the plastic bolt with a pair of needle-nosed pliers while pushing down on the tab seemed to work well. I did have to remove a small box that houses electronics to remove the one from the right side.

While I was in there, I tightened up the numerous bolts that holds the drum shell together. Machine is much smoother now and no leaks.

when I replaced the other one it was broken also but you wouldn't know it by just looking at it. The only problem being able to get the new one back on I put it on pushing from the front, I can only imagine the ttrouble I'll have get it out again I'll probable have to cut it out with somthing because it's right up against the circiut board housing. other wise not a bad job. But I think my age has somthing to do with it.Not much strength.