FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

1. Removed bottom cover - torx driver and drill adapter.
1.5 Unplugged machine and disconnected electrical supply to old pump.
2. Removed flexible hoses with wrench.
3. Removed pump base from machine with torx driver - the hard part as small hands are needed
4. Connected new pump to machine base with torx driver - hard again.
5. Connected hoses - wrench
6. Connected electrical supply and plugged in.
7. Tested pump - very quiet again.
8. That's it! Don't pay a service guy $250 to do this. Buy the pump and do it yourself!

I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

Very easy, took off the lower front cover (two screws). Pump is on the right side up front. Took the two screws out that hold it down, unclamped the clamps inlet and outlet hoses. Put a towel under and around pump to catch water befor pulling pump out. Installed the new one in revers order.

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

The hardest part was moving the stacked washer/dryer from the alcove. I found the instruction videos from this site accurate and helpful.

After disconnecting the water/gas/electrical connections:
Shock Absorbers:
-Remove front service panel
-Squeeze lock tab on shock absorber pins and gently tap out of sockets
(inserting a small screw driver kept tab depressed when starting)
(lower left is pretty easy due to clear access)
(right side is more difficult)
-Optional: remove drain boot on lower right to improve access
(squeeze spring clamp and wiggle off of connection then work boot off of nipple)
(I did this step but in the end discovered it was not necessary, as I ended up taking the back panel off of the washer to replace the belt)
-Position new shock absorber in mounting brackets
-Manually extend shock absorbers to line up with pin holes
-Tap pins into place
(For lower right, the pin was captured by the circuit board enclosure. I was able to remove it but ended up removing the two mounting screws for the enclosure to reinstall the lower shock absorber pin)
-Reinstall drain boot & spring clamp
-Replace front service panel

Drive belt:
-Remove back panel of washer (multiple phillips head screws around perimeter)
-Remove old belt by pulling toward you and rotating drum
-Position new belt on motor pulley
-Position new belt on drum pulley
-Zip tie new belt to drum pulley to keep it engaged as you rotate the drum
(new belt will likely be much tighter than old belt)
-With belt installed on both pulleys, clip zip tie
-Rotate drum multiple times to ensure belt is centered and tracking properly
(if needed, the belt can be manipulated in/out while rotating drum to ensure engagement on drive (motor) pulley)
-Replace back panel
-Put unit back in service

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

First I pulled the front panel on the washer off, than I unplugged the wires to the pump, took the two screws out that hold the pump, took the two hose clamps off and took it out. To replace I did the reverse.

took off 2 screws and 2 hose clamps put in new part. Put srews and clamp back on less than ten minutes. total cost with shipping $62.00. repair person wanted $265.00.

Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.

I watched the videos and replaced the shocks and suspension springs. This worked to stop the unit bouncing completely and cut the banging noise in half. Further diagnosis revealed a damaged drum and outer shell. The repair itself was very simple and didn't require special tools or skills. There is a tricky shock absorber locking pin on the right shock bottom position. There is a control box of some sort that prevents the complete removal of the pin without breaking it. On install, I simply pushed the pin through from the front. Ultimately, I ended up replacing the unit. However, I found the site to be extremely helpful. Great service.

Simple install, remove the two screws holding the pump motor.
Loosen the two hose clamps that hold the hoses in place.
Pull out old pump motor.
Place new pump into place, and install mounting screws and tighten.
Slip drain hoses onto new pump and reinstall clamps.
Check for leaks.
Done.